With Love from Athens

 

Brasov, 10 November 2011

 

Today my nose flows from the left nostril. According to tradition, tomorrow the right one will do the same. If I'm lucky, it will stop with that. If not, the day after tomorrow I will cough. The coughing may take longer; two days, maybe three. So it usually happens every fall and spring. I had left to Athens, just in order to avoid the cold season from Brasov, but I had to go back for few days. Just a few days were sufficient to get sick. Now I need to sit quietly in the house and heal. Next week I have to get back in Athens with his wife.

 

As quiet as I am, a regret is crossing my mind: I did not keep a diary during my trip in Athens. Interesting events occurred there and it would useful to print them. Unfortunately, I had no time to put down impressions. I had a job. The aim of the trip was to rent a studio or a small apartment. Before to rent, it must be found. I have done it, but, with that, things were not finished. In order to convince my wife that my choice was good, I had to make it as attractive as possible. The first thing was cleanliness. At first view, everything seemed to be very clean. I believed that a small finishing would bring it on the verge of perfection. Here I was wrong. Cleaning was superficial. Little by little, I had to word harder and harder. Finally, I succeeded, I think. Then, I had to do some shopping. I did not know from where, as supermarkets like in Romania there were not to be found, I do not know Greek language, in short, a lot of small and great problems. Of course I wanted to visit the area - very beautiful and interesting, however. It wasn’t about relaxed. I was busy all the time.

 

Not keeping a log, not noting impression, it seems that I was the best in cleaning. I knew that this was just the beginning and that I will have enough time later, what was picking up somewhat my morale, although first impression always are more relevant. Later, they lose the glow, so to say, become flat and – God forbid – priggishness.

 

Now, that I have a little fever, an idea came to me: from Athens I wrote every day letters toward my spouse; these letters may take place the diary. I used to write them during the morning to be sure that I would not give up later; excuses are easy to find. I thought to copy them, as they comprise just my impression of that time. The fact that I have fever now is not important, as I propose to copy them tale quale. Besides, perhaps the fever is not very high.

 


My dear,

 

Despite of a little promising start, the trip to Bucharest developed in better conditions than I hope. The minibus came from Sibiu almost full, so that there were not places for all of us. Consequently, they put at your disposal an elegant mini-microbus of 9 seats, with which we got at the destination more comfortable. From Bucharest to Athens I went with the coach in conditions known by you from the previous trip in April, when we went together. Even at the hotel, I found the same crabby receptionist, except that, this time, I renounced to receive the rest of few money and this little tip was enough to turn him into a very kind man. I had not to wait till twelve o’clock, when officially the day starts in hotels; he immediate gave me a room, and not one single, but double. Actually I don't know if the hotel has single rooms and I do not see why would have, since the size of the rooms allow a bed big enough for two persons. Only twin rooms, i.e. those with two separate beds, need a little more space. Finally, I am well installed in the hotel, ready to start looking for renting an apartment, in which we will spend together the autumn-winter season, wet and cold in Brasov, but much more gentle and dry here. I do not begin the searching right now, because I am tired and sleepless after the travel, but tomorrow morning I will do it for sure.

 

A few observations on climate I can note just now: though autumn begins, the leaf of trees is far greener than in Romania and there are still flowers on some bushes. I identified only roses; the others are unknown to me. Yes, I know the reply: "anyway you do not get good at flowers". It is true, I do not know much about flowers, but I appreciate their beauty, regardless of name.

 

Now I am going to do a small stroll to the mail, for buying Greek stamps and send this small first letter.

 

Athens, 21 September 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I dreamed that I was a civil servant somewhere and I have been advanced as great head elsewhere – to the colleagues’ envy and bewilderment. In my new function, it was that I was accompanying Ceauchescu in a visit to an international exhibition. Among other things, on a panel, some symbols were displayed for showing what place in the world each country occupies. I remarked the 3rd place occupied by the USSR for bicycles. Ceaushescu wanted to take the symbol of Romania and to place it instead of the USSR, but an official had explained that he couldn’t do that; someone else decides there. In the next phase of the dream, I was proposed to lead a delegation of Romania in a foreign country. This time, Basescu was the chief. The purpose of the delegation was to carry a precious fish, which he had received as a gift. You see, he was very fond of it. In that country, there was another fish, of the same species, with which he was to couple. At a meeting with some Chinese, who made team with us in the same delegation, the representative of China was unhappy that the old Romanian delegate had been replaced with me. In the meantime, I had realized that all changes were only wider manoeuvres, aiming to mask the change of some important persons. In this situation, I took the opportunity and told that, if the Chinese does not want me, I withdraw. Being liberated from any obligation, I was free to rumble on the streets, among the participants in a scroll like those on 1 May and 23 August, the political holidays during the communist regime. I was again back in Ceaushescu’s era. As nothing important could happen, I got bored and woke up. It was 8:30 in the morning, so I hurried not to miss the breakfast, the most important meal of the day for me now.

 

Athens, 22 September 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I write in the morning and not during the evening - as you maybe expect - for two reasons. In the evening, particularly after a hectic day, I could be tired and marked by recent events. In the morning, instead, I am rested, the night sat down the incidents in my mind and I can make a better synthesis of events. The second reason is a very pragmatic one: the temperature during the day is much different face to that of the mornings; dressed suitable for morning coolness, I should wear the surplus of clothes in hand during the rest of the day. If I stay a little more in the house, I can leave dressed casual, with the condition to get back home before coming the night, when the temperature drops again.

 

The first news of yesterday was a bad on one for me: because of a strike, public transport was out of work. It seemed to be a dead day for investigation. The second news redressed somewhat the first one. The owner of one of the housing (identified by me on the Internet) offered himself to come at the hotel and pick up me for seeing his apartment. Cut from their part! He doesn’t speak any language except the Greek, I do not speak Greek, but his daughter, Amalia, knows English and was our translator. She speaks much better than me, as she works in England, being on vacation now.

 

The house I have seen is on one of the hills from Athens. The owners have another daughter, living here, who knows some English, so that we will be able to communicate in this way, after Amalia will be gone in London. Also, there is another lodger, a teacher of English, who could help me. The hill, on which lies the house, is a big one and relatively far away from the centre, but close enough in comparison with other districts, Athens being a city extremely stretched. Besides, there are shops nearly with almost everything you need, so moving into other areas of the city, including the centre, is not required for usual shopping. A particular and appealing element: a few steps from the house there is a park.

 

During we drive toward to house, I said that it seems to me there are fewer Africans on the streets now, face during the spring. Do you remember how many of them were in April. I thought then they came recently and will disappear soon. She proudly answered me that they are here to collect garbage and that, perhaps, there is no longer what to collect. She seems to be very arrogant. Meanwhile, I found that Africans are still present, even more. My remark from yesterday that they would be fewer was inaccurate, and Amalia’s replica too. I think of them and I cannot reject the idea that, however, they are some individuals who have risked, maybe, their life to arrive here, like the Romanians fleeing the country before 1989. The majority of the Africans come from countries that have been helped and – as everywhere happens – the aid produced only negative effects. At the individual level, the Chinese proverb "If you want to help someone, don't give him a fish; you teach him how to fish" is known from ancient times. At the macro level, we see what happens now: a few people get rich and others become unemployed All of them become lazy and do not think to work. That’s way I am inclined to grant circumstances those who have gone in search of something better in Europe. Most of them seem peaceful; there are others worse and these ones did not leave because of the poverty.

 

In the evening I went out for a little walk and “to take pulse" of Athens. It is said that the all people know here English language, because they learned it at school. In one my first conversation with a guy, I started to tell that his clothes are the colours of the Romanian flag: red, yellow and blue. I replied that his name is Vasilis. Our discussion went on in the same friendly understanding.

 

Athens, September 23, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

The owner of an apartment that I visited yesterday gave me meeting in front of the “Municipal Hospital”. I suppose it is not the single. This one is located in the most polluted area I ever seen. It is on the ring road coming from the southern of Attica peninsula, crosses with avenues from the centre of Athens and arrives in the port of Pireu. I just got passed on there and felt that I no longer can breathe. I assume that, for admission inside, they check the health of the patients, to see if this allows them to resist there during the time of hospitalisation, because only healthy patients could be treated in that hospital.

 

* * *

 

Through the window of the hotel, I see a parking lot. In the morning it is empty. People come, leave the car at the entry, opened and with keys in contact. An employee arranges them side-by-side, so that after a couple of hours, the entire parking lot is full. Not a single square metre is free. In time, some people come to take their cars and others come to leave theirs. For extracting a car, he pulls out in the street – a very crowded one – all the cars in front of it. Afterwards, he moves them in the same place. The man is very busy the whole day. Sisif, that from the Greek legend, is a pale example in comparison with our man’s work.

 

* * *

 

The Greeks think they are the embodiment of democracy. They have it in mind, not in life! The worst is that they do not observe what happens around them, that the society is not at all concerned with the status of those with modest incomes. Public transport, for example, is despicable. Buses and trolley buses are rare and can be crowded more than during the Romanian "golden age".

 

* * *

 

During the Middle Ages, people had a smart idea: the leadership of the city was provided by a council of the guilds. Citizens used to vote at the level of their understanding. They chose some representatives of the guilds and these representatives were discussing and solved the important problems of the city.

 

Athens, September 24, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

Generally, Greek women are not just pretty, but - once you get used with the general view – you can see on some of them even nice details, as sign that everything is relative. The eyes have drawn my attention the most. I never saw so far so black eyes. Not dark brown but black. And more black are the eyes more white are the sclera. Black and large eyes! They are the most attractive when are cheerless. Most commonly happens to young women.

 

There are some fatty Greek women, some even very fatty, but surprisingly few. Very fatty man I do not remember to have seen so far. Most women have a normal physical constitution, almost enviable. As regards the American women, if they ever visited Greece, certainly will not repeat the mistake; the silhouette of Greed women would provoke them a crisis by envy and, perhaps, profound mental disorders.

 

There is however, a reverse of the medal: very thin women. Some are so thin that seems a miracle that they can move their bones with so few muscles. And not only that they do it, but make it with great vigour. Have a forcible walk, energetic and determined. You may not suspect them of inanition. The only explanation is their nervous system. It provides to them a great power consumption, even for nothing. Almost all smoke and no anyway, but continuously, in any position, even on the motorcycle. Really! I saw just yesterday on a motorcycle a lady leading with one hand, with the cigarette in the other and a child at the chest. Not a little child, but one at least two years.

 

(I am founding now, copying the letters from Greece, that I was harsh with Greek women. There are many normal women, maybe the majority. But, as what I wrote was the first impression, that which shocked me, I leave it as it is. As for the fatty ones, they are enough in Athens. I suppose they were staying at shadow during my visit. So it explains why I did not remark them. Only the thin ones ventures to walk on heat.

 

As for girls, the truth is that those from Greece are as nice as all the girls in the world. Some are even beautiful. Due to the mixture of races, some can have special features, making them very interesting. Up to 30 years! Later, they gain rough, almost masculine features. The loveliness sweetness disappears. The reasons are not hard to intuit: they shall keep the household, caring for children, ... Hard life ...

 

Many older people are short, some very short. The youngest have "European" heights. It seems that, in the meanwhile, they have mixed with people of different ethnicities. An apart category forms the persons extremely fat, particularly women. It is a hormonal disturbance, but I do not know the cause. Perhaps, their parents, who wanted tall children, have given them an incentive, whose effect was limited to the lower half of the body. Their number is surprisingly great. Also, the number of old women with failure to walk, due to illness is impressive.

 

I also have a good note for Greek women. The fashion "waist low" has not caught on in Athens. I must admit that I find it horrible and totally disadvantageous for its adepts but…. Turkish influence is stronger in Romania than in Greece.

 

And I give them a good note for their heels. Not of those of Achilles; of the women: I have not seen unkempt heels.) This is their merit. Nature was also generous with their ankles; most women have slender ankles and, I must recognise, the shanks are also fine at most women, even of those easy overweight. Further, as up you look, things begin to be more or less full of light and shade. And if you have arrived at the head, see that it should have been changed anyway.)

 

Athens, September 25, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

In principle, everything is well, less the fact that I am alone. On the other hand, running all day, we could not be together, so I'd be alone too. Now, it is 3: 25 in the night. I don't know if I have waked up by some thick-skinned Danish making noise in the hotel, or I woke up by myself, because I slept early, at 21 o’clock. (I was too tired to do anything else.) It is a young drunk girl who fosters the scandal of the Danes. Women become embarrassing when are drunk.

 

* * *

 

At the end of each day, during which I cross the boulevards of Athens searching a house for us, I have the neck more irritated as it was after a night-party, in the times when I was a smoker. Surely, an apartment in such areas should be a certain disease. In addition, the noise is terrible, especially due to the motorcycles.

 

The offer on the hill seems to be the best from this point of view as well. There, the air is fresh, it is silence, and the district almost select. Anyway, the neighbourhood is quiet and – probably - away from thieves. Unfortunately, the park, about which I wrote, is in vicinity only in straight line. The streets are more tortuous and the distance increases. The hosts seem to be decent people, but I may be subjective and influenced by the fact they were the only ones who came to take me by car from the hotel. Everyone else fixed the place of meeting; I had to identify the place on the map and learn the means of transport up to there.

 

I can’t research the villages in the vicinity of Athens, because I do not know the Greek language, and ordinary people there do not know the other language, some not even Latin characters, although the signs on every street are written both in Greek and Latin. Yes, in Greek schools, the pupils learn English language but, unfortunately, not all adults know English...

 

 I hope that, in time, we can investigate the area together.

* * *

 

Trying to get information about Greece, I have found something interesting. There is in the mountains of Greece an ethnic group that is named “Vlachs”. I found it in National Geographic and is signed by Mike Gerrard, a writer, with multiple prizes: Travelex Award Travel Writers, Outdoor Writers Award Guide for excellence in Foto Journalism and Reports; Prize of the British Guild of Travel Writers for best British reportage" etc. Here's what he writes about the Vlachs.

 

"The largest group of Vlachs, is one of the whose name is related to the province of Wallachia Romania. They were shepherds, with a nomad life, moving their flocks through Central-Europe and East, reaching down in the Balkans, travelling anywhere they could find good pasture for their sheep... Today, many of the Vlachs are living in Metsovo, but settled in fixed dwellings and abandoned the old life of shepherds. Although their lifestyle is almost extinct, it is possible yet to catch an short image of the existence of this proud and independent people. In the times an old shepherd Vlah wealthy might have even 10,000 sheep, though, at present, their few herds are only a few hundred. Nobody knows surely where the Vahs came from. One of the theories say they are descendants of the Romans Legionnaires, stationed in Central Europe. Another theory states that the Greek Vlahs are natives from this area and that their nomadic style appeared during the Roman occupation, when people from here would have been made to work as shepherds or work on Via Egnatia. The Romans left behind some features of Latin language. Vlah population has its own language, which contains a multitude of linguistic links with Latin and Italian. Vlahs often were employed as translators in the period during which the Italian army occupied this mountain area during the second World War."

 

I hope I should not to insist on the fact that the second theory explains nothing. Its stupidity is obvious. Incidentally, even Mike Gerrard provided it an alternatively, leaving the reader to apprehend the irony. It remains to keep the first variant: the central-East European origin of the Vlachs, which - blended with Roman Legionnaires – assimilated Latin language, although, the pre-existence of a common language is an hypothesis to be take into account.

 

And, if the Vlahs from Greece have assimilated elements of Latin language from Roman Legionnaires, the folks from Romania could did the same. Fertile land, riches and variety subsoil and many others were arguments much more tempting than those offered by Greece. Perhaps, that Roman Legionnaires were some deserters, refugee in the mountains of Greece. The same argument works and in the case of Romania and explains why they were extended North, out of area officially integrated in Roman Empire.

 

But, there is a much more plausible hypothesis: that the Vlahs spoke a language close to Latin. This hypothesis is already known, so I will not insist here.

 

Athens, September 26, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I am transcribing now what I noted yesterday, sitting on a bench in Central Park of Athens, after a half day of running.

 

* * *

 

It is a formidable oasis of tranquillity this park, in the middle of uproar around. A slight wind blows on the streets, but it is calm here. The space in front of me is covered with gravel. Only gravel! Pigeons are landing and leaving on it. There permanently are about ten of them, picking up something of this gravel. I do not realize what they pick up; do not grow anything here and it did not rain from the spring, After they eat, fly on the trees to make siesta. If in gravel would be some products of the trees, they would find more under the trees. But there is not a single pigeon there.

 

* * *

 

The Greeks, as the Romanians too, have resisted for centuries, in spite of all vicissitudes. There is however a difference: the Greeks have produced something during this time, while the Romanians much less. We must not dishearten ourselves for such a small thing. The similarities join the people, not differences.

 

But I still did not understand what the pigeons find in the gravel.

 

* * *

 

Almost everywhere, starting with Omonia Square and up till the most elegant areas of the city, but particularly in bars and expensive restaurants (where I enter sometimes do pee), you hear people speaking Russian, as proof that Russians do business here. I did not saw Russian beggars and I have not yet an explanation why they are not implicated in this activity, moreover, profitable.

 

* * *

 

If you read "The Grapes of Wrath" by Steinback, you learn that farmers’ situation in Texas before the great boom of the oil was very heavy; as a result, some of them leaved to California, hoping in a better life. If you read "Autobiography" by Anthony Quinn, himself with a miserable childhood, you find out that he departed from California to Texas, in about the same period, to yearn a living on your own. Whom do you believe? There surely is some truth, in both. But how much? And if a reader has experienced only one of this books, what will be his opinion? (Protect me, o Lord, by the readers of a single book!)

 

Quinn’s ambitions were in artistic fields, and he is unbiased relating social issues. Steinback, instead, was a professional writer. In this quality, he has a theme, and develops it in the form of a novel. About it we know he had socialist conceptions, made a visit in the former U.S.S.R., but – unlike the Romanian Panait Istrati - has did not change his opinions; on the contrary. He entered deeper into the role.

 

Generally, the author or a book assumes a role of information, even if this is not his aim. I have heard many people submitting statements with the argument that he had read it in a book. Possible, but if it was a book of fiction, written by a professional?

 

A professional writer is someone working on command and receives money for that. Whose order? Oh yes, of course, some of them create on their own command; they write because they have beliefs and cannot keep them for themselves. Strong believes! Unfortunately – or happily – such people are only a few, almost nobody pay them and, consequently, such books are difficult to found.

 

I am remembering a poetess’ observation: "Only those who do not think enough have perfectly clear ideas." Not that I would love to get swim in muddy waters, but the world, life, so they are from nature: murky. And, indeed, clear ideas may appear only in our minds – and it's good that appear - but they do not last but a moment. In that moment, our mind stops. (It would be great to put them down then, but, when I begin to write, they already have been disrupted.)

 

* * *

 

A palaeontologist advanced the hypothesis the Greeks had the idea of Cyclops after they discovered the skeletons of some elephants, which have a hole on the front. It is unlikely, because the Greeks had dealings with many other peoples, including Egyptians, and were unaware with the existence of elephants. What's with these guys ... the scholars. I am remembering a joke with a Scotchman saying that the archaeologists found out a copper wire, which proves that their ancestors knew the telegraphy. The reply of his friend, an Irishman came immediately: “our archaeologist made some diggings and found out nothing, which proves that his ancestors knew the wireless telegraphy.

 

* * *

 

I have read on the guidance-pads that this park dates back from antiquity. In Bucharest, if it got rid of a monument of communist activists, would not begot rid of "urban" post-communist zeal of nowadays leaders. Here it says that it was the School of Aristotle. I found two alleys of Otto, the first king of modern Greece, and his wife, Amalia, although the nowadays Greeks do not want to hear of monarchy. The park is located behind the former Royal Palace (today the Parliament), and functioned as an "open space" of it.

 

* * *

 

In connection with the last paragraph, I recall that, in the previous trip, when I asked by the Royal Palace, people were shrugging their shoulders, until an Englishman guided and warned me that it is called Presidential Palace and not Royal. Indeed, the Greeks are powerful feelings regardless of opinion, but here I am inclined to give them justice. On the one hand, it was a foolish to impose the monarchy to whom that invented democracy. Only the extreme arrogance would explain it. Besides, Otto had only 17 years old. The Greeks, on the other hand, have shown intelligence by accepting it, of course temporary. Moreover, Aristotle is that who had taught them that there is not a perfect form of government, which is why the society passes a form one to another in a cyclic from. The smart solution for social peace – the only providing general prosperity – is to keep the balance of trends. I do not think the Greeks in 1832 were remembering Aristotle, but they needed a solution for international recognition as independent country.

 

* * *

 

How the world has changed... The old Greeks used to sculpture naked men and dressed women. Today it's vice versa.

 

It seems that Praxitele was the one who made the beginning, by his Aphrodite. He left, however, a small piece of linen around the hip. I don't know if from decency or, on the contrary, he wanted to make her more appetising.

 

If I look more carefully on Greek frescoes and statues, I found that no character bears glasses. It means that they used to see well. They were clairvoyants. I hope you do not believe in such stupidity. I am joking. No one could believe in such a thing. Well, if they had been clairvoyants the Romans would not overwhelm them. They fought against Persians Empire a much larger and very old - even defeated it several times - and have been messing with Rome, a small country in the process of formation at that time. A historian argued that the Greeks and Romans were like brothers and for this reason they were accepted. Well, that's an even bigger stupidity, but the historians could afford it. They can afford anything. Anyway, anyone believes them. I mean not a serious person. Sparta fought against Athens and Greece was not to struggle against Rome. Let’s be serious! An engineer – these guys know everything – invoked Greeks’ less of knowing in engineering. He said the Greeks did not wear glasses because they still had not be invented. Aces! The Greeks have invented lots of smart stuff and were to escape in some glass. The truth is that they did not know that they did not see well. That’s why they did so many mistakes. Even later, after the separation of Roman Empire in that of West and East, they were the ones who actually led the new one, Byzantine Empire. Some ones named it the Greek Empire, because people were speaking Greek language. Well, it collapsed from itself, because of neglect and others like it. When the Turks took Constantinople, the Empire was finished long ago. I fear that the likeness between Greeks and Romanians hardly could be avoided.

 

You see how any argument finds Finally a counter-argument. That's why we, Romanians, begin always with counterargument. As it was found that, most often, things do not go as we want and no by far as it should, then someone comes with the argument and explains what was wrong, although we knew it and even better from the beginning.

 

The similarity between Romanians and Greeks still stay in mind and I wonder "why I am wondering?". Well, if you think it is natural. In the history of Greece, each time when they believed that were feeling well, some peoples in the North came and broken their good-humour. In fact, they have been saved, because had became lazy. Only afterwards, their civilization has made a giant step forward. Well, those from North were just the Dacians. Yes, the Dacians were those who saved the Greek. The converse idea is true as well, especially since, later, the Greeks came in Romania. And they come in all forms, from the poorest ones to the leaders of State, but most of them have carry on trade. So the Romanians lazy is explained: they have been infected by the Greeks. Or vice versa! Bad thing is taken easily. Like lipstick on the lips! One do and other remains! But the most eloquent thing seems to be the true brand of Romania: Dracula. It comes from Draco. So I think. This Draco lived in Athens, seven century before Christ and made a code of laws, called further draconian. Sounds familiar? Among other things, every public officer was to make a report, at the end of his activity. In the agora, people used to make the evaluation of the report, according with the results, he could receive congratulations or the death penalty. You ask why people are struggling to become servants? Draco knows!

 

Athens, 27 September 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I rented the apartment from the house on the hill. The house has a demy-basement, ground floor and two floors. The demy-basement and the ground floor are for rent to four individuals/families; we are one of them. The owners live at first floor. A daughter of them, with her husband and three small children occupy the second floor. A nanny for the children comes there during the day. The other daughter, Amalia, is a teacher in England. She has a baby girl for about two years. Now she is here, but will leave over a week.

 

Our apartment is on the ground floor. The entrance is through a hallway, in fact, a room of 3 x 3 m. Here, there is a sofa-bed, a small table and two chairs. On the left, the room itself is, with a balcony quite large. On the balcony there is a small round table and two seats, all-plastic, similar with those from Romania. In front of the balcony there is a lemon, now with unripe fruit yet, but usable. As a matter of fact, the lemon must have only juice, because it is sour anyway. On the other side of the entry, the owner prides itself with a log of vine, which rises up to the second floor.

 

In the room, there is a double bed, a bedside-table and TV, on a special table. There were a classical ironing board and a big electric fan, but I refused the ventilator and stored the ironing board on the rear balcony, because, yes, there is another balcony at the kitchen. Returning to the bedroom, most houses in Athens have big and large wardrobes in the wall, tall up to the ceiling. The entrance hall continues to the right as a corridor. The bathroom is on the left and the kitchen ahead. This emplacement of the kitchen has the advantage that odours do not penetrate into the room. In the kitchen, there is a fridge, electric stove with oven, a table, two chairs and a lot of cupboards, hanged or on the floor. There are even two double-bottom stew pans, a frying pan, few dishes and cutlery for one person.

 

In the kitchens of Athens they use almost exclusive electrical apparatus, although the methane gas was introduced few years ago. For the moment, they use it only for central heating in several large buildings. All furniture of the house is old, but functional. The owner’s daughter assured me that her father is a good master repairs everything. Indeed, he seems to be the type of handicraft man. In the bathroom, there is a washing machine. I have not tried yet the equipment, but I hope it work. If not, I will have the possibility to check the girl's assertions. The entire apartment has central heating.

 

The initially alleged rent was of 350 euros per month, but - for long term – it was reduced to 300 plus taxes (light, water, heating). Although I am not good at negotiating, I tried and have proposed 300 with taxes included. He did not agree, but proposed 280 plus tax and I accepted. I paid for the month of October, plus a "deposit" of 280.

 

Well or bad, we will see. Now, I hope to relax myself, as I feel exhausted. Not physically, but mentally. I have still not moved and I do not hasten I do, because I paid the hotel -room with breakfast included - until 30 September, so I have time to prepare the apartment before moving.

 

Athens, September 28, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

Do you remember Crístos, the receptionist from the hotel, with whom, in this spring, you used to talk in French? I found out that this name, often in Greece, is pronounced with accent on "i" and not on "o", which is reserved for Jesus Christós, Using it for a certain person may be interpreted in a ironic sense. Why the name Crístos is frequent is easy to explain. It comes from “hrisos” (ηρισóς), which means gold and existed B.C. Jesus received this surname: gilded, polishing with gold.

 

Our man knows several languages and has a passion for them. I have noticed that whenever he has the opportunity, it is he the one who retains the customers, of the pleasure of conversation in their language. After giving the required information, he opens a topic and talks how long the client is willing to continue, sometimes dozens minutes. Unfortunately, Romanian language is not in his concerns, but gives me the opportunity to chatting in English. Topics may be of the most various, from fashion and habits of peoples to the political ones, in which he flies into such a passion that, soon, you no longer understand what he is saying.

 

I liked that, yesterday, three young Frenchmen of Arab descent, probably Algerian, have asked if in Athens are just so many thieves from the pockets as they say. Christos explodes. Staying here for several days I began to know him pretty well. I know his reactions after the eyes and lips movement. It was run a formidable tirade so I thought the young people would run away immediately. He started saying that not Athens, but Paris is famous for it. Even he was robbed in Paris and the cops did nothing. What surprised me was the statement - on which he insisted very much - that the main thieves are Algerians and Moroccans, which was a direct offence to them, almost surely Algerian. Instead, he did not say a word about Romanian thieves, about which we learn from the TV that are a veritable social plague abroad. Maybe he did so by courtesy for me, but perhaps he does not want to dissipate the attack, which was extremely virulent. Unexpected for me was the lack of responsiveness of those three young men, who were listening almost amused. I'm inclined to think they were thieves and were just enjoyed to listen the opinion of a victim about their performances. The fact that they used to stay in a hotel, indicate some more evolved thieves, but nothing else.

 

From books, films and other sources of information, we know that, in the Arab countries, nobody steals. Islamic religion, like other religions, prohibits it. But Muslims have in addition the Islamic law, and the most radical of them just apply the rules. Dragos, my cousin, said that, in one of the Arab countries, where he worked few years ago, people do not lock the cars. In addition, they leave the cars in parking with the keys in contact, the engine and ear conditioner working, for not heating up during the staying. The waste of gas did not come into account; it is very cheap. You can leave your briefcase in the middle of the road, as anyone will take it. Interesting is that the same Arabs are the source of some of those most active thieves of Europe. It is clear that, at home, they do not steal for fear of the law. And it is equally clear that, in Europe, the law is not as severe.

 

What I find strange now is the contradiction between the information from Romanian media, according with the Romanian thieves have become the scarecrow of the West and the reality from here, in Athens, where Romanians are almost invisible, while the Arabs, Africans and Asians are upsetting many. Obviously not all of them are thieves, but most thieves are among them, particularly Arabs. All the natives confirm this statement. I think the defaming of the Romanians is caused by occidental groups of interests, and the Romanian media only plays without discernment their propaganda.

 

They are, indeed, many "coloured" in Athens. One of the reasons why I chose this apartment is the fact that the district Ano Kipseli, where it is located, is clean from this point of view.

 

* * *

 

From a few days, I sleep earlier, wake up about three o’clock and fall asleep again in the morning.

* * *

 

Kiki, the girl who serves breakfast at the hotel - you knew her in this spring - is very kindly with me. For the second time she brought me double portion of ham and cheese, so that I eat for you as well.

 

* * *

 

Today I want to buy a new lid of toilet set for the apartment, detergent, mop and others. There are no real super-markets in Athens, or I did not find yet. The fact is that the Athenians did not know of their existence and, obviously, do not frequent them if still exist. If I think about a little, the emergence in Greece of shops of Western-style would upset deeply the mentality of its inhabitants, accustomed to tiny shops, because every Greek wants to be a merchant.

 

* * *

 

Here, the strikes are almost continuous. For me, those affecting transport trouble me very much. Only Saturdays and Sundays are safe. Then, there are not strikes or protesting demonstrations. Anyway, they are useless; the financial crisis is not resolved in this way, even if their grievances would be resolved favourably. On the contrary, it is getting worse. They should find constructive solutions, not destructive. With strikes and protests, the list of the culprits increases with those who organize them.

 

You can ask them to read Sophocles, but I would have expected the ethics of guilt and innocence - so widely debated by him - to be left some traces among those with less culture too. Greek theatres had thousands of places; it means that almost all the blowing of the city was participating in the shows. Just nothing left? Not a single idea? There are guilty without blame, but innocents with blame. Oedipus was one of the first. He killed his father and married his mother without knowing. When he realized, it was accused himself. First, he was an innocent with blame; afterward he became a culprit without blame. The organizers of the strikes area ware of their guilt?

 

Athens, September 29, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

From a couple of days I work to clean the apartment and commend myself that I managed something Grand. Today I will finis and move. Chrístos, our buddy at the reception of the hotel told me that it would have been more appropriate a dwelling on an island: quiet and much cheaper. He bought himself one. Maybe next year ...

 

The owner-lady offered me a cup with a cream and insisted to say my opinion. After I declared my admiration, she proudly told me that it is grape juice with cocoa without sugar. I learned that she has sister living on the Evia Island. I do not know if the grapes are from there or from those climbing on their house.

 

* * *

 

A cat had climbing on the balcony and, from there, on the lemon tree. Immediately after it, a bigger one with Tiger's appearance came. After they threw each one a piercing glance, then a spit, the first one broke into a run. The other has turned a little and, as noting was to do in lemon tree, left. Maybe she heard the sad John Lennon's song about the lemon tree.

 

* * *

 

We have noted and discussed about the terrible traffic in Athens. I wonder how they got here. I don't think the administration of the city wanted so, but here it is. How? The fact that public transport is poorly developed induces the idea the access of middle class toward the centre of the city has not been stimulated. On The Contrary! Of you have a car, it’s all right; if not, stay at the periphery or move into counties. But people had a different opinion and turned to cheaper cars and motorcycles. They would use even bikes, but is impossible now. It would be far too dangerous. The traffic is terribly. Motorcycles could be prohibited, but it was already too late. Ii is democracy, all men vote, and the politicians do not afford to ignore the voters. In this way, they all torment themselves their life, regardless of wealth. And that would be nothing, but the traffic in such conditions requires concentration and after such a nervous consume, it remain a little energy for anything else. Moving through the city is an activity that requires the attention in the highest degree.

It reminds me a happening in Vienna, in 1990. I was going to the house at one or two o'clock in the night. The streets were almost deserted. However, the traffic light at an intersection was working. In the front of me, a gentleman was walking slowly. At the traffic lights, he stopped and sat quietly, waiting the green colour. His discipline may seem exaggerated, but – in fact – not discipline counts this case. The man went out for a walk. He was not in a hurry to reach somewhere. Perhaps, on the contrary, he did not want to get home too soon. His thoughts probably run faster than his feet. And then, why to troubled his meditation with silly problems like "To cross or not to cross the street?"

 

It has no relevant that the scene happened in Vienna, although there is a difference of mentality. Unlike German people, the Greeks, who resemble which Romanians pretty much from this point of view, consume much energy making problems from nothing. Although clever, being exhausted solving minor problems, they no longer have the necessary resources for more important ones.

 

* * *

 

The motorcycles are of all types: from mopeds and scooters and up to the most powerful, full of frills, some more expensive than a car. User’s preferences are easy to intuit. The son-in-law of the owner, a serious gentleman, has a scooter, although the financial situation would allow him a good car. Moreover, his wife has a white one. He is, however, a practical man. With the scooter he is doing even better and does not have great problems in parking. Demanding and useless powerful motorcycles are preferred by those with few intellectual pursuits.

 

From my point of view, I would prohibit motorcycles and I would develop public transportation, but I am not a politician. As one can see, the politicians should not deal with serous affairs. Or, more precisely, the access of the politicians to serious problems should not be allowed.

 

* * *

 

The central market of Athens is worth fully its fame. Here, you can find excellent products at low priced. But attention! Sellers are Greeks. Yesterday, I bought grapes. I have chosen a single bunch, as it was big enough for two days. The seller took it, thrown into a bag, weighed it and told me the price. Everything very fast. At home, I discovered that, in addition to the bunch chosen by me, at the bottom of the bag, there was at least a half of a pound of grain. It is clear the bag was before prepared, waiting for a customer like me. Probably he has a bag of each range of goods. On the one hand, I understand him: the grains come off from the bunch and it is hard to him to sell them separately. What put me out of humour is the intent of playing a trick to the customers. I can't even say that I was hoaxed, because the grain were from the same assortment and were not bad at all, maybe even better, being baked. I have not found even a single berry damaged. But still I felt a little injured.

 

Athens, 30 September 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I have dreamed that I had a cosy chat with VBT. Surprised by the absurdity of the fact, I woke up. (I exaggerate, lately, I have had normal meetings with her.) It is 3:30 now. Although last night I was very tired, now I feel rested after only a few hours of sleep. Maybe changing the bed had a role: I find myself in new housing.

 

Now that I woke up, I have to do something, so I write. I thought the finishing which I wrote yesterday about will be a trifle, but I was wrong. First of all, afraid of the sting of spiders and other domestic animals (living in man’s house), but un-domesticated, I disassembled the two beds, washed with detergent and I've fitted them in place. Walking about the cabinets, I found that they were not just clean, so I washed them as well. The fridge took me long time too. I had to work at it most over an hour. It was full of hardened oil stains. The same around the cooker! In the whole house, there are very many long hairs, black and thin.

 

* * *

 

Last evening, the owner-lady brought me a new set of bedding. She probably noticed that I had put on the bed new bedding, though in a wardrobe there were some old ones, together with two pillows and a few towels, which I did not use.

 

* * *

 

Yesterday, during a break from the work, I was to the hotel to take the last things. (I had brought the most of them, in order not to carry too much all at once and because one never know when it a strike here and public transport does not work.) I thought to throw a look on the park in the neighbours, about which I wrote a little disappointed. Consequently, instead to move down, I got up.

 

Well, the distance is not great. We have to go up our street to the end (about 200 yards), and about others 50 yards on another street and reaching on the top. From there one descends about 50 yards and arrives at the park. It is actually an appendix of the park, which is huge. It is called Attiko Alsos Park. An arrow indicator specifies that the left street leads into the district named of Galatsi.

 

And, if I was on the other side of the Hill, I thought to get down from there to the centre, though I was not sure about the route and I didn't have any map to me. As the man of mountains I knew that, going on the thread of water, you get at the foot of the mountain. The risk was to go dawn the slope on the other side and to get away. But, the position of the sun was saying me that the direction is good. I was puzzled when a road-indicator shows the opposite direction. I have stayed consistent to my principles and I ended up perfectly. The pointer probably was intended to drivers, in order to avoid clutter on the street, but indicate a longer route. (What does it matter when you go motorized? But I was walking.) The road is even nice, maybe a little longer, because the slope is les steep.

 

In some places, Athens is very lovely.

 

This was the report of yesterday. Now I try to take a nap until morning.

 

Athens, October 1, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I wrote you yesterday that the park behind the house is far away. What I seen is like an island in the vicinity of a continent. It is actually a large hill, and rock I saw was a cliff hampering me to see the hill. At the top, there is a church (I think it's a monastery) and a water-reservoir. The whole hill is studded with pipes sprinkler, which they sprinkle the forest with, in the event of fire, or preventive, the vegetation being very dry, especially on the top. Only the bottom it is green. As you climb it is more and more dry. A trail snakes up top, where only the view is interesting. But, at the bottom, there are benchs and shows like a park. Toward the top, it is wild like on the mountains. You realize that I did a real trip.

 

Birds are not there, but there are here next to the house, and I am hearing them in the apartment right now when I am writing.

 

I did not speak Greek yet but "How are you" and "Thank you". I was too tired and cannot concentrate. Instead, at a food-store not far away there is a Romanian girl named Daniela. She may help us.

 

I did not know why the street is deserted, although it is 9 o’clock in the morning. In the meantime, I cleared up; it is Sunday. So far I have not seen any passer-by and I have not heard any car or motorcycle.

 

I began to identify my neighbours. I wrote to you that the owners live upstairs; at the second floor, live one of her daughter, married, with their three children. The elder is a little girl, going to school, first class and two twins of about three years. Other daughter, Amalia, lives in England. She is to leave on Thursday. In the demy-basement, lives an English woman. She lives in Greece because her ex-husband is Greek; she came here and remained. Now, she teaches England language. She is not just single: two small dogs keep her company. She talks with them in English, but I did not hear how they respond. Fortunately, there are enough silent. Instead, there is another dog at the second floor of the building across the street barking every time when he sees a confrere on the street. And has a voice of the trumpet ... more than annoying! During the evenings, when some people walk their dog, the noise is terrible. Fortunately the nights are quietly.

 

Most strange is the family living in the same house with us, on the ground floor, the other side of the entrance corridor. She is mother of two small children. About him I do not know what to think; is the husband, ex-husband, or only children’s father? He comes from time to time and then they argue soundly. What disturbs me a lot is that they slam the doors and make much noise.

 

In the demy-basement, below them, just moved an young family have just moved. About them I did not even know anything. Probably they are only tourists for a few days. Their apartment was offered to me as well, at the same price, although it is slightly bigger. I refused, because I do not like the idea to live at the basement and that the floor is by marble. Ours has parquet at least in the bedroom. In the meantime, I thought the basement is not recommended because the damp. However, here, in Athens, you can give the moisture only if you dig below sea level, but we are on the hill. On the other hand, the ground floor has the disadvantage that an air current flows under the doors, while in the basement it does not occur. But, looking through the window, you can see only the feet of people passing on the street, which would not be very agreeable.  Anyway, there is nothing to do now. Les jeux sont faits!

 

I noticed that, although the summers are very hot, the Greek women – even some elderly ones – wear long hair, mostly wrinkled, even if some of them do not have money for shoes.

 

Athens, October 2, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I walked up to Kipseli Squar, about five hundred feet below. There are there more many shops and restaurants and, as everywhere in Athens, statues. Even in the square there are two. One of them, right in the middle, is dedicated to Konstantinos Kanaris. Even his dresses are strange, the author wanted to represent a fighter for freedom during the Greek War of Independence; he was one of them during his youth. Later on, he was politician, admiral and even Prime Minister. In this monument he is sitting on something symbolizing a boat, on which is wrote "elefteria". I know you know that elefteriá means freedom, as in Jassy was signed the Proclamation of Alexander Ypsilanti, who organized “Filiki Eteria – Society of friends". I don't know if you know that the “leftá” means money. Its association with elefteriá is, perhaps, important to Greeks. (Smile!) “Lefter”, instead, there is only in Romanian language and reflects the time when man learn the value of money, as the means of the word is penniless.) As for Kanaris, at Chios, on the night of June 6/7, 1822 naval forces under his command destroyed the flagship of the Turkish admiral Nasuhzade Ali Pasha (or Kara-Ali Pasha). In 1862, he was one of the few War of Independence veterans that helped in the bloodless revolution that deposed King Otto of Greece and put Prince William of Denmark on the Greek throne as King George I of Greece. Under George I, he served as a prime minister.

 

The second statue in Kipsely Square is at the beginning of a pedestrian walkway, starting from here. It is a bust and is dedicated to Merkifis Spiros, former Mayor between 1899-1914 and 1929-1934. The following statue is on the pedestrian walkway, a few metres later, and represents a dog. It is so probably because a lot of dog-owners come here in order to allow their dog to socialize each other. On both sides of the walkway, there are bars, cafés, confectioner's etc. On the middle of the way, on a width varying between ten and twenty feet, trees of different species are planted, among which palms could not miss. There are also some pools of water, and – finally - you guessed – a statue of another Mayer is. His name is Kostas Kotzias. When he was at the head of the town is not specified.

 

The Greeks of today are striving to continue tradition and to make statues. The modernist ones are a few. Most are in classic style. They can afford, because are good at this, and their statues are really fine. Noting that many of them are dedicated to some relatively recent distinguished personalities for public services, such as the mayors about who I have just wrote.

 

Athens, October 3, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I don't know if the Greeks truly have the passion for trade, but surely have its pleasure. On most streets there are shops. As small a street is, as many and small shops are. Rarely I see to have a customer. Typically, the merchant stands alone, from morning till night, every day, sometimes on Sundays as well. His business may not be a prosperous one. Perhaps even the word business is an exaggeration. You may suppose that he stay there because it is more enjoyable for him then in the middle of his family. Financial resources necessary for maintaining the family, remains a mystery for me.

 

In the West, at the weekend, almost everything is closed. In Athens, almost everything is open.

 

In the West, merchandise stock is considered damage. In Athens, small shops are crowded with merchandises, although the sales are only in the shopkeeper’s dreams.

 

* * *

 

Last night, watching television, I saw a group of nine singers of very different ages playing guitars at the mandolins of various shapes and sizes. All songs were from Greek folklore. There was no conductor, and they rarely were looking each other. Each one was being focused on its instrument, although they do not sing continuously, but come in certain moments, like the instruments in a symphonic orchestra. That means that they have a great sense of the rhythm and a perfect knowledge of the all orchestration of songs.

 

* * *

 

Romanian beggars, about whom they speak so much in the country, are very few there. The majority of them are children and can be recognized by the only song they play: “The Waves of Danube” by the Romanian composer Ivanovich. In fact, it is more tortured than interpreted. I don't know if they belong to a single "organizations" or more. As they have the same song in their repertoire it is an argument for the first variant. Also, I saw two bands of adults. They were singing well, one of them just very well, especially jazz music. Although are gypsies, they wear normal clothes. Multicoloured skirts women I never saw so far.

 

There are, instead, young Greeks of 20-25 years old, who do ask you imperatively for money. Usually, they do it in the vicinity of restaurants.

 

Athens, October 4, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

Notice of the day

There is in our genetic code instincts that we ignore, sometimes even strive to remove them as soon as we observe their manifestation. I wait the trolleybus for several minutes and observe in the station a little boy, able to stand up, but not to talk. I draw the conclusion that he has about two years. After he gets from his mother a multicoloured toy, he pull out its handle and rummages with him on the asphalt of the sidewalk. When he considers that it picked up sufficient material, he puts the handle into his mouth and sucks it, as if it wants to test the taste of harvest from which has just drawn a sample. The mother observes, takes the toy and, of course, the child cries. Not for long. The mother begins to chat with another lady; the boy steals the object and repeats the manoeuvre. Obviously his goal is to taste the "savours" of the road with his tool.

 

In the past, he probably tasted other materials as well, but they have been banned. Nobody had taught him to do such a thing. These are him atavistic instincts. To solve the problem, the mother took him in her arms. I admired her strength. We expected the trolleybus long time; my small bag of not more than three kilograms had begun to seem me unbearably heavy. The lady continues, however, to take the baby in her arms, without giving signs of fatigue, although she certainly was. In the end, the trolleybus came and we all boarded. She was the last one; young people first. Greeks can be as friendly, as thick-skinned, sometimes at the same time.

 

* * *

 

Fortunately, the windows of buses are large, stay open almost permanently, the air movement is intense, so that the atmosphere is endurable. There are not finical ladies that close the windows, for fear to not fall their false eyelashes.

 

* * *

 

Here is a disconcerting denomination: Polis Parking. The confusion comes from the mixture of Greek with English. It is not parking for the police, but a public one, as "póli" means the city. The word policy comes from here too; it refers to the problems of the city.

 

So, a townsman should be a polite man, a man of the city, assuming that this is an honest one, who observes the rules of coexistence.

 

Athens, October 5, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

The Communists without communism

Sometimes, I pass at the hotel to inform about various locations, means of transport and other things that I don't know. The two receptionists are friendly, or at least so it seems to me. With that he likes to talk and seems kind-hearted, but I'm not convinced that truly is, I had an inciting talk yesterday. I am trying to reproduce the dialogue now. Here's it:

 

-         In Greece are more communists than in the former U.S.S.R.

-         How so?

-         In Greece some people really believe in communist ideals, while in the U.S.S.R. not even Stalin believed. And those who, perhaps, had believed in the past got sick of it quickly.

-         Because they have experienced?

-         Yes, and they have realized that it is a Utopia.

-         Utopia is a Greek word.

-         Yes, the word has a Greek origin, but with this meaning was invented by St. Thomas. Not make that long face; not by Saint Thomas, that from the Bible nor by Thomas Aquinas, but by Thomas More.

-         And why you made him holy?

-         Not me I've done him. Pope Pius XI did it in 1935.

-         In 1935? Well he has lived in...

-         Around 1500. -       1400 years later.

-         And why he has canonized then?

-         The church has always its arguments. The truth is that he opposed to the king Henry VIII, who wants to divorce, Henry divorced and the Pope excommunicated him. The fact that Thomas more was opposed to Henry liked to the church.

-         Well-well, but it is more a detail of worldly life than...

-         It is not only a fashionable fact, for it has generated a major schism in the Catholic Church.

-         It's true, but Thomas more is today known as the author of Utopia and as a predecessor of communist ideologues.

-         Exactly, and his beatification in 1935 precisely when the installation of the communism in Stalin’s U.S.S.R. was in full progress is more than strange. What the Pope Pius XI had in his head is hard to find.

-         For the Pope, I have not explanation, but to Thomas I could grant extenuating circumstances; utopia means a place that does not exist, so he wanted to say that such society could not exist too.

-         If you like, you may consider that he was a romantic, while the communists were just criminals, but there are also the variant "eu topos", with that Thomas was played and which means "happy place", so I do not know how romantic he was. His biography looks him like a man politically active. He was a man with pragmatic mentality.

-         Well. Let's still come in Greece. You said there are many communist here than in the former communist countries.

-         I have said that are more than in the former U.S.S.R. In the others former communist countries were even fewer. They were occupied countries. The so-called communists were people imposed by the Russians or simple opportunists and traitors without any communist principles.

-         And say that those who really believed in communism, so few how they were they were, healed when they learned what happened?

-         It was normal. That’s why communists convinced cannot exist but outside the communism.

-         Communists without communism. It seems that this is the only possible combination. But how did you conclude that in Greece the communism has so many followers?

-         Well, I see on the street, after the participation in such strikes that are keeping the chain ... On all walls, on all posters, they wrote K.K.E. and have adopted as a symbol just the hammer and sickle.

-         The situation is more complex in Greece. Here, people are marked by their own history…

 

At this point, our discussion was interrupted by the arrival of some tourists. I would have wanted say that I have a great admiration for the Greeks who fought for independence, but not for those fighting each other in Civil War, which proved the masses can be manipulated in any direction, in their case by Marxism-Leninism induced by the Soviets, and in no case for those of nowadays, who are manipulated against of their own interests. Only a very large dose of ignorance can make possible such manifestations, but maybe it was better that our discussion was interrupted, because I don't think that he would be pleased to find out all my opinions.

 

But I can tell to you. The Greek communists make a double mistake. Because they consider they are the parents of democracy, they believe that they even are democrats. They did not learn from history that a theoretical idea pushed extremely get utopia. The second mistake, much worst, is the assimilation of Marxism-Leninism as a democratic doctrine. Marx himself did not intuit the evolution of the society. He was just an ideologue of his time, who wanted to instigate the mud against the of society’s highlife. In the conditions under which the industry was in full development, he thought that the workers will become dominant and universal suffrage will bring them to the leadership of society. This idea was not only stupid (farmers were majority and never led), but even today they are not in majority. On the contrary, their number drops gradually. What matter is not the number of people that can be mobilized but the existence of a philosophical current and a solution of social construction.

 

About Marx, it is known that he had serious psychological imbalances, caused by a skin disease (according to a study published in the "British Journal of Dermatology" and taken over by "The Times" in the fall of 2007). Indeed, you can get madden if your skin is itching and you cannot scratch yourself. I wonder: what is the disease of Greek communists?

 

The Greeks forget that Plato, though a great philosopher, was a poor politician. Here's that not everything coming from the past it is good or worth to follow. Perhaps not even the democracy.

 

Athens, 6 October 2011

 

- - - - -

 

In Athens of nowadays, you never know if you can go or not on a particular route, because you cannot be sure of the means of transport, due to the strikes. Sometimes buses go and do not go the Metro. Other time the trams or trolleybuses go, sometimes nothing, not even taxis. However, it is a way of saying that the movement is blocked, because most people go with their own cars and – especially – on motorcycles. You are very sorry for trolleys, busses and particularly for the passengers. Moving slowly, sometimes very rare and, curiously, on the narrow streets, made more narrow due to the endless strings of parked cars. You wonder how they can sneak. On the main boulevards, the stream of cars and motorcars pollutes not only the atmosphere; some motorcycles make a terrible noise, so that just sitting there you get tired.

 

Yesterday I was lucky. Although a general strike was, I got in the morning the trolleybus and tram and went up to Voula, on the seafront. It is a place that I like very much. I wrote Voula, even it is pronounced "Vula" in order not to create confusion. Greek language has five possibilities for the sound "i", but none for "u". Because it still exist, is wrote as "ou", as in French, which does not mean that they have borrowed the idea from French, but conversely, the French took it from the Greeks. French tourists are very few. They explain the using of the diphthong “ou” is helpful, because not only French people, but the English ones, read it correctly, as “u” and not as “iu”.

 

I walked even further, beyond Voula, towards Vouliagmenis, and in the evening I managed the same performance, taking tram and trolleybus in reverse. By Syntagma Square, besides the mess left by protesters, one was feeling the smell of gas, probably tear-gases, used during the day.

 

I recorded impressions of the moment, collected in tram on the recorder after I assured myself that those around me do not know Romanian language. Here they are:

 

In the coastline area, the percentage of the women with sunglasses is almost one hundred percent. The men do not bear. A lady of about 35 years, maybe a little more, put her glasses after she climbed in the tram; how long she has walked in full sun, did not need them. Seems to be a fashion.

 

* * *

 

There are many Russian women, especially in the area of Glyfada. (Glifada is one of the most expensive districts of Athens.) Men are probably at work, or at the restaurant.

 

* * *

 

You can listen to Greek music on television. In public space, "Boat on waves" by Ivanovich is to be heard. People recognize it immediately and advertise each other: "Guard your pockets”.

 

* * *

 

Greek people vary between very polite and ill-behaved, sometimes mischievous. In the traffic, the drivers are to be admired. Other times, instead, are incomprehensible. A gentleman of 60-65 years, well dressed, is sitting with legs outstretched on one the side of the seats. He is high and his legs hamper the movement of those who must go on over there, especially now, when the tram became crowded. Since he stay so – and it is about one hour – he did not sketch the smallest gesture to facilitate the passage of tens of passengers, forced to step over his feet. I do not talk about those who, when boarding, make place with elbows, no matter who is around. And if the bus or trolleybus is crowded you can be sure that someone is angry and screams. Usually women.

 

* * *

 

A well dressed gentleman of about 70 years has put something crisp in his mouth and chews. But how he does it... With a formidable nerve. I never saw so far anyone to move the jaws so quickly.

 

* * *

 

Next to me a lady was sitting with a boy of at least five, maybe even 6 years. She wants to keep him in her arms, because she can kiss him every two minutes. The boy has other preferences. He even succeeded two times to get down and stand on his own legs, but not for a long time. The mom has recovered him immediately. They bother me a little, because the boy was touching me from time to time with his foot and the mother push me with a satchel handbag. Finally, another chair was free and I moved, to the satisfaction of the child, as his mother has no longer justification to keep him in her arms. Now, the boy stands on my place. Only the mother, disappointed, looks at me with hatred.

 

Athens, 7 October 2011

 

- - - - -

 

Yesterday we bought and, obviously, ate something that seemed to be fish pane. It was tasty, but I was not realizing what kind of fish it was: fresh-water or salt-water fish? As I am curious, after the meal, I took the packaging and I found out that I had eaten "pulaki". Do not scare; it means chickens.

 

* * *

 

Because of the strike, the owner’s daughter did not manage to leave for London. She hopes to do it next week.

 

* * *

 

When they say that Athens is a city of contrasts, most people do not realize the size of those contrasts. We see them all around, from the lowest to the most important ones. Here's a small one: while I was speaking with an office worker from a counter, a young man almost pushed me and popped in my face for speaking him instead of me. Instead, I saw another young man, well dressed, about of the same age, how he raised and throw in the trash something that another passer-by had thrown to the floor.

 

The streets, stemming from main arteries, can amaze you by their contrast. Some are particularly stylish. Instead, on the others, if you have entered by mistake, do not know how to leave faster, for fear not experience something unpleasant. It is clear that Athens has developed quickly and not everywhere the same.

 

The cause of the contrasts lays in the recent history of Greece and not in the ancient one, even if people preserved some mentalities. Athens was almost a village before to acquiring the independence and we cannot believe that its inhabitants and their descendants have built modern capital of today. Contrasts? On the one hand, a population of ignorant people and, on the other part, achievements that amaze you.

 

Today, I walked through a park. Another than the central one, about which we already wrote. Even in that one, an example of contrasts is the fact that two alleys wear the name of King Otto and his wife, although the population is strongly an antimonarchic one. The park is located behind the Parliament building, the former Royal Palace and was "an open area", in the sense that it could be used by the public. Maybe those two alleys were the favourites of Royal family; perhaps they were drawn at their request… I do not know. Anyway, the park exists from antiquity.

 

The park that we visited today is just nicer, though - before to see it – I did not think that such a thing would be possible. What has impressed me was the harmony of different trees, and the maintenance of the alleys. They are cobbled, paved or asphalted, with the drainage of pluvial waters well studied; the main ones have sewage like the streets. They are made to resist not only up to a term of warranty, but eternally, like the construction from antiquity. For not to interrupt the continuity of the Park because of a streets, they built a pedestrian passage, if I may say so, as it has a width of about 100 meters. It permitted more construction from concrete, like a small amphitheatre for shows, all sorts of tracks for exercises on bicycles, scooters, roller, boards and others. Obviously, a tavern could not miss, where backgammon players are unfailing. Throughout the park the lovers and enthusiasts of jogging are predominant.

 

Everywhere, not only in this park, but in the entire city, there are numerous statues dedicated to the national heroes, but also to many local personalities – many mayors –, by which the population is invited to honour and to follow their example. Of Course, numerous statues are of mythological characters, sign that the authorities are concerned in the education of new generations. All are beautiful, some true masterpieces.

 

However, people seem to self-educate in the opposite direction. And I say self-educate because the Soviets – those who have unleashed this calamity and propagated their propaganda even in Greece - gave up communism long ago, so this local hysteria is self-generate. It is true that more ignorance is necessary for this, but it seems that it is to be found galore. It needs just someone to stimulate it.

 

(I said that Russians renounced communism; not to Greece. Access to Mediterranean Sea is one of their unfulfilled dreams yet.)

 

K.K.E., if it really were a political party, and not a branch of Russian secret services, it should come up with concrete legislative proposals, by which the economic situation might improve, and would mobilize its followers to support those proposals. Currently, however, their actions are only destructive, without any other perspective but anarchy.

 

Athens, October 8, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

On television, they discuss politics. Although I do not understand why they say, I have realised that the term "discussion", which I just used, is inappropriate. No, everybody says his poetry and do propaganda for his party. Most vehement are the communists. K.K.E. has its own television channel. In the public spaces (restaurants, pubs etc.), although there are television-sets in almost each room, they play anything else aside.

 

* * *

 

As expected, I know now much better the places visited in April. That’s why I will do brief overview of them. It can be useful for our next talks.

 

Athens is presented to tourists – and so we met it as well - by the three poles of it: Acropolis, Syntagma and Omonia Square. In reality, the city is huge and its districts are very different. But, as a beginning must exist, I will start with this classic triangle.

 

Perhaps, for those that, like us, come with coaches, I should introduce those three peaks of the triangle in the reverse order, because their first contact with Athens is Omonia Square, as most coaches stop close to it. Around, there are lots of markets and modest hotels. There are here almost all nations, so that the streets are as animated as unsafe.

 

It was, perhaps, a time when the Greeks, after they had argued is the Agorá, at the foot of Acropolis, they used to came here to conciliate each other, because the word "omonia" has this meaning: good understanding. We may change it a little and obtain “harmony”.

 

Now, the square with this name is an crossroads of six large arteries with an intense traffic, plus a major metro station.

 

Among the most important streets, Tritis Septemvriou is heading toward the north and Athinas and Stadiou to south; the first toward Acropolis and the second toward Syntagma Square. 50 metres away from Omonia Square, other two important streets ramify: Panepistimiou, parallel to Stadiou, and 28 Oktovriou, also called Patission, parallel to Tritis Septembriou.

 

Here's some info on the name of streets.

-         Tritis Septembriou: on 3 September 1843, a revolt of the army, supported by the citizens, imposed to the King Otto to accept a Constitution.

-         Syntagma means constitution.

-         Stadiou is a name after the ancient Stadium, The Panathinaiko Stadio, to which it would lead in straight line, if the Palace of the Parliament had not interrupted it.

-         28 Oktovriou: on 28 October 1940, the Greeks have said NO to Benito Mussolini’s ultimatum, claming to Greece to allow the passing of Italian troops over its territory.

-         Patission Street connects Omonia with Patissia district, a former village.

-         Panepistimiou (University) is also called El Venizelou, after the name of Elefthérios Venizélos (1864-1936), politician.

 

About 100 metres away from the Omonia Square, there is another crossroads with six streets. In the cobweb of streets around, besides hotels, you'll find snack bars, small shops and a lot of cafés. Hotels can be very good and at reasonable prices, but also you can find among them some of that, which, in the evenings, put “red streetlight”. During the day, all they look alike and only after you got comfortable with the landscape remark the difference. (This reminds me of New York, when - rambling on the streets – I arrived in Far West, in full night. I figured out where I am only after I met some ladies with fur clothes, but without underwear.) The unrest of the area is hard to describe. Asians and Africans mix with Europeans, so that the well understanding exists under this form, although we should not rely on it without limit. In those ten days during which I had to across the area in all directions, I have not noticed any regrettable happening, but my attention was permanently awake.

 

I return to the triangle Omonia-Acropolis-Syntagma. As we move away from Omonia, and come near Syntagma, we will remark a change of the landscape, from a specific oriental one, to something more European. Stadiou and Panepistimiou are preferred, particularly the second. It passes next to several beautiful buildings, built in the style of ancient Greek architecture, remarkable being the Municipal Library and that of the University. Panepistimio has even it means: University, i.e. something that gives to the graduate certainty and trust as a specialist in any field. The attribute "in any field" was valid at the time when the scholars were all-knowing. In the meantime, thanks to the development, the knowledge are as fragmented and scientists as specialized, that, today, the all-knowing attribute may be used only in an ironic sense, or in stories for children. How about the philosopher in the true meaning of the word, they disappeared in the same time with the antiquity. As for some of newer ones, some have served others’ interests (church or politics) and others probably did not understand the meaning of the word wisdom. The University keeps the meaning of universal just by getting together different faculties, with different specialities. Consequently only those institutes of higher education having a considerable number of faculties of different specialities, covering an area of wide knowledge, deserve to bear the names. I suppose that that from Athens has this feature. What I know for sure is that the beauty of the buildings cannot be overlooked.

 

Syntagma Square is divided into two by the boulevard Amalias, a continuation of Venezelou. (Amalia was the name of King Otto’s wife.) At the bottom of the square there is a small square (agora, in Greek), with access to the Metro and surrounded by few shops and a restaurant. Here they held rallies of protest, filmed and transmitted to the TV channels all over the world. Around the square there are the greatest hotels and embassies.

 

At the top part of the square the building of Parliament lays, former Royal Palace. Here, on the platform in front of it, tourists may watch the famous exchange of guard with soldiers (evzone), dressed in traditional costumes. More amusing than their uniforms are their movements. Behind the Parliament, toward the East, Central Park is, very large and beautiful, and in front of it there are the buildings of some embassies. This is the street what gives to Athens the appearance of a large capital. The first the street on the right, after the park, pass through the front of the current Presidential Palace, the former Royal Palace. In the face of it, the changes of the guard occur, in the same manner as at the Parliament.

 

Our walk goes on around the Park, which allows us to admire the new Olympic Stadium, Zeus’ Temple and Hadrian's Arch. Athens has around the Central Park the most beautiful urban landscape that I've ever seen. The vegetation of the Park is a masterpiece of landscape architecture and the perspective the surrounding heights – Acropolis, Likavetus and others - or even on some elegant buildings, are a delight to the eyes. The New Olympic Stadium is not only beautiful, but fits perfectly in the landscape. There, the first modern Olympics games were held in 1896. For those in 2004, it was rebuilt and looks very nice. It is narrower than today's stadiums, so that it is not suitable for playing football, for example. Instead, various celebrations occur there, such as the opening of the Olympic games in 2004. Among the sporting competitions, archery and arrival at Marathon took place there.

 

By the way, when one talks about the first Olympic competitions, only those of men are took into consideration. Few people know that there were similar competitions of women as well. They were dedicated to the goddess Hera, Zeus’ wife, and were held every four years, but in the interval between those of men. The first competitions were held in the year 776 BC, but the Mythology places them in the legend, as initiated by Heracles, of joy that he killed the King Aucias, the one who had put him to clean up the stables.

 

As about the men, the assertion that they used to run naked amuses me. The error has an explanation: in the most of sculptures and drawings, they appear with empty body. And not only the Greeks and not only in antiquity. Michelangelo's David is empty too. The Greeks have cultivated the beauty body, especially the male body, and believed that any addition would diminish of perfection. Dressed – even partially - would mean to give up just the symbol of the manhood. For Greeks, aesthetics was more above the reality. The one who asserts today that the competitors used to run naked reveals only ignorance: men cannot run without suspensor. I am referring to running in competitions.

 

Zeus’ Temple was one of the greatest from Europe and still impresses, with its 15 columns standing and one laying, form 104, as there were. In the middle, there was a huge statue of Zeus, which has not been preserved. It is said that one of the emperor Hadrian existed as well, also unpreserved. Not far away, Hadrian built his Arch, placed there in order to mark a boundary between ancient Greek Athens, and the new Roman one. The intention is declared and written on both sides of the arch. So it says; I was not able to distinguee anything.

 

Returning to the Omonia square, I was saying that, Stadiou street lead to Acropolis, more exact in Monastiraki Square at the foot of the hill. The street continues the commercial aspect of Omonia.

 

Between Monastiraki and Syntagma the district Plaka is located, a maze of narrow streets and pedestrian alleys, along which it is hard to find anything else but small shops of clothes, artisan products, footwear, jewellery and more like this, in the most authentic oriental style. It is always full of tourists, because- whatever tastes - one have to see it even by curiosity.

 

Those who are fond of good graphics I recommend to see something really valuable: shop on the street Kidathineon, at number 15. In fact, there are two shops. The small one has old and new works, all very good quality. The other is more oriented to the trade, though I saw some nice work, especially few watercolours. It is located near a tower loved by the Athenians, because, in this area, Lord Byron used to spent time. He had come for supporting the struggle for the liberation of the Greeks. In time, the event made a strong impression, especially after Byron died, and the Greeks take pride today with that. The Tower belonged to a monastery, which was destroyed by Omer Pasha in 1824, in retaliation against the rebels. In fact, the movement for the liberation started from a monastery; not from this one, but from an isolation one, Ayia, in the mountains, where the Archbishop of Patras, Germanos, hoisted the Greek flag on 25 March 1821.

 

Also in Plaka, the Patriarchy is located. In front of the church, there is a statue of Archbishop Damaskinos, venerated for his endeavours for defence the members of the clergy and population during the German occupation (1941-1944).

 

In the same square, on another statue, that of Konstantinos Palliologos, there is to be found the emblem with double-headed eagle and a cross above the Eagle, the same with the blazon of Romanian prince Constantin Brâncoveanu.

 

Athens is full of statues of personalities, proving that the Athenians esteem them in this way. Melina Mercouri has as well a bust on the boulevard Amalias, opposite to Hadrian's Arch.

 

If Plaka is a commercial district, in front of it the Greek history begins: Agora, the Hadrian's Library, Roman Agora and the point of maximum attraction: the Acropolis. I don't intend to make a description of the monuments. They are to be found in any tourist guide. I just draw some points of interest, seen through my impressions.

 

But Athens is more elegant in the periphery, both by the sea and to the north-east, in Kifissia. In Syntagma are institutions, embassies, hotels. At the periphery there are sumptuous villas of those with money.

 

I am tired, so I am finishing for now.

 

Athens, October 9, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I went to paint the landscape at the foot of Acropolis. It was a beautiful, calm day, no wind and, of course, with much sun. Unfortunately, it was   almost impossible to paint, due to several groups of children, who were coming with the teachers in excursion. They were doing a terrible noise. I never saw so many groups on the same day. I had to give up painting.

 

Still, I cannot overlook the education received by kids here. "Ruins are the teachers of civilization", said someone. And not only the ruins; the museums of history, even those of arts, when are visited.

 

I was, instead, in the Ancient Agora. In the spring, we insisted only the Roman Agora, with Hadrian's Library, the Tower of the Winds and other monuments, where the density is greater. Ancient Agora is much more airy. Temple of Hephaestus, Tezeionul, as it is called too, watching from the Acropolis, was attractive to me. The idea of going there was inspired. Whole the space is really nice. It looks like a park, sprinkled with monuments and ruins. It is a pleasure to walk on everywhere. Also, you cannot miss the Museum set up here, where there are original statues. Two or three of them still keep the original paints, although very deleted. Good luck that time deleted them!

 

Among the ruins of ancient monuments, there is an Orthodox Church, as well. Is full of churches in Athens and this area is too large to remain without any one.

 

The association between Mythology and Christianity rises questions, and the questions claim answers. What I'm looking for now is to explain to myself the speed with which the Greeks passed from one to another and still in a very definitely way. They created a mythology, and not a somewhat one, and suddenly they abandoned it in the favour of another faith, becoming one of the most faithful Christian peoples of nowadays. Perhaps, the Russians are more faithful, but there is an explanation in their case: they had to fight against the Tartars and other invaders and the Christian religion used to make the difference. Later, the communist regime banned the religion; as people need a spiritual support, they continued to believe in secret. Their faith has strengthened in this way. Nobody forbade the Greeks to believe in whatever they want. If someone had done it, probably they would have kept the old faith more strong. But it happened inverse: the Greeks are among those who spread Christianity. So, the question is more acute. As I do not see around here any learned-man to enlighten me, I try to put my logic at work, and to link between them the few data that I know. My opinion is that they, the Greeks, are the ones who laid the foundations of Christianity, much before Jesus. They created the seed. The Greek’s idea germinated in Jerusalem. It was natural for they to enjoy for the fruits.

 

Why they felt the need to change? From some points of view, the Hellenic Mythology has some features superior face to many other religions. It is more than a religion; it is a transfiguration of real world in a fictional one, allowing the building models, with all ethical and moral dilemmas that can arise from them, with all questions and possible answers. The cosmogony itself is treated as a struggle for power, which happens on Earth. Zeus is not an idol. He is like a manager; He is a model. And it is not perfect; He is also human, with all human qualities and defects. He is also a king. Not a particular one, but the sum of all kings. And he is not located in Attic or anyway in other part. He is everywhere, at least all over around the Mediterranean Sea, where the Greeks navigated. Mythology is literature. Incidentally, it seems that Minos as well was not a king, but a common noun in the language of those time, designing the idea of King. Instead, God is an idol; He is The Lord God, the greatest, but still an idol.

 

In religion, whatever it would be, the divinities command. In mythology everything is discussed. Moreover, “mithos” means story; no one claims that the topic is real. And a story should have a moral, cause a thought, a discussion. Prometheus was the hero glorified today. In the past, he was a case to be discussed, because he has done well to the mankind, but he did bad too. Zeus reproached him that he was rushed giving the fire to the mankind, before preparing them how to use it. Zeus loved people as well and he would have given the fire, but only after men had learned how to use it, being fully aware of all its effects, positive and negative too. And, if we think about the fire in general, and not only to that for the grill at the picnic, we note that the subject is present today more then any time.

 

Consequently, the Mythology was good. And then why they have replaced it? Let us not forget that the Greeks are the ones who invented democracy too. Not for all. For the mob, the gods were like idols, and they had to bring them sacrifices. The mythology belonged to trained people. It was less a dogma, but a medium for philosophical discussion. The poor need however a psychological support. For them Christianity was born as a religion offering them a perspective. Greece and Israel were in the same situation, as provinces of the Roman Empire. This is the reason, for which the authorities initially rejected the new religion. They needed four centuries until to realizing how to use it. Therefore, the western variant – where Christianity was introduced with the sword and Inquisition –is different face to the early Christianity, the only true. Well, the Greeks still think in the first variant. Or so it seems to me.

 

Nikos Kazantzakis, in "The Last Temptation of Christ", reopens the debate on the main topics of Christianity. He suggests some logical explanations of the behaviour of the main characters from The New Testament and proposes the confrontation of opinions, stating "the lamentations never bring healing”. Judah, for example, was concerned about the current problems (Roman occupation etc.) and their failure was making him evil. Jesus, instead, was dreaming and was kind-hearted. Magdalena was a brave woman; she is life itself.

 

The Bible is a book of wisdom. It must be read as such, and not simplistic, as some priests do.

 

 Athens, October 10, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

It is 23:45 and the neighbour-lady from the apartment across the corridor still stresses her children: a girl of about two years and another one of 3-4 years, who would sleep quiet in her absence. It is not for the first time; it does it almost systematically, sometimes in the middle of the night. You might think that one of the kids wakes her up. Maybe, but voice of the child I barely hear through two doors and the gangway between us. Her voice, instead, wakes up all people from the house. It is no wonder that she is only skin and bone.

 

* * *

 

On the window of a transport agency Greece-Romania I have read that, on Sunday, they will have a special drive toward Romania. I don't know if it is a supplementary one, or it is the only one in this week, the others being cancelled due to the strikers, which might block the roads. This last hypothesis worries me, because over ten days I intend to go home. It was closed when I switched on there, but I'll go tomorrow or a day after tomorrow I will go to inform myself.

 

* * *

 

Although I like the good wines, in Greece it seems that it is not appropriate to aim too up. The more expensive ones are probably for tourists. Some of the cheapest ones could be just better. Obviously, not all of them. Worth trying! I just have done it with a red wine, excellent. Maybe it is not identical to that of which God Dionysus used to drink, and neither maenads dancing around me with dishevelled hair do not see yet, but I am satisfied with what I have. Generally, their foods are of very good quality.

 

* * *

 

The principle of market economy, fundamental in a democratic society, is violated when some employees of a company of public transport do strikes. And it occurs not only in Greece. I hear more often about strikes of air transport societies from Paris or London. Thousands of passengers are affected, and for some the delay may have wreaking havoc. These strikes should be prohibited in such domains. As for those who block the roads, although they work in different enterprises, well, these men are simple thick-skinned fellow.

 

* * *

 

I enjoy that you decided to write about the interesting happenings from your medical activity. Of course, most tasted are the amusing ones, but some of the others, those that cause reflection, could be even more valuable.

 

Athens, October 11, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

Yesterday, I went to buy either two blankets of wool or an electric blanket. After I walked all over the city, on my return, close to home, I found exactly what I needed, but I did not know how to ask; the name here is electric mattress. It is odd, as it does not cover anything. It has not covers you; on the contrary, you stand on it. No matter of its name, it is good. This night I had the first experience and I can say that the result is positive.

 

I have dropped in the travel agency about which I wrote yesterday. It is a supplementary drive, departing in the evening, unlike the others, which depart in the morning, at seven o’clock. I would go with them, because they do a discount for round-trip ticket, but the departure so early is almost impossible, especially a day with strikes.

 

By the way; speaking about the topics that interest the Romanians living in Athens. At the agency, there are Romanian newspapers and magazines. They bring them every day. Bravo, the agency! However, all publications are about sports and for entertainment. Nothing serious. This is not the fault of the agency. It is to be congratulated for the initiative. This is the interest of the Romanians living abroad for what is going on in the country. The most good of them is the satiric magazine "Catavencu", for its jokes about political life from Romania. This raises the morale of those who have chosen to earn their living abroad. I hope I will not get in their situation. I am retired and should not win my existence of working here.

 

You have expressed concern about the aggressive manifestations in Athens. There is no danger of tangling with the protesters. (I was to write ‘the Protestants’; here's a case in which the invention of new words is required.) I liked the joke with Molotov and the Molotov-cocktails. Yes, the ‘molotovs’ and their relatives are dangerous in any form. The demonstrations are in Syntagma Square are not exactly in front of the Parliament, but across the Boulevard Amalias. The parliamentarians are not so disturbed. Instead, the show is very visible from the rooms of great luxury hotels: "KingGeorge Palace", "N.G.V.", "Athens Plaza”, “Hotel Grande Bretagne"(It is funny this French name for Great Britain!).

 

Sometimes, when there are not manifestations, from a speaker with a huge power they howl something that, anyway, I don't understand, but you oblige you to leave the place how quickly you can. Is deafening.

 

I do interfere neither with the Protestants nor with the protesters, because none of them interest me. The strikes of those from public transport and – newer – of those from sanitary engineering trouble me very much. The garbage from two weeks is not amassed yet, because they are in strike. It seems that, in some respects, Romania is more occidental than Greece, though it joined the European Union more recently. There are several sanitary companies in Brasov, which have direct contracts with the associations of lodgers. The associations pay, and they do it only if the workers done their duty. The contract can be cancelled at any time. Strikes are with no sense in these conditions. The idea of concentration all the sanitary companies in a single one, depending on the mayoralty, was stupid. We experienced it after the nationalization and had the opportunity to learn what disaster was.

 

For me, these strikes for increasing the salaries are incomprehensible. In general, people are dissatisfied, regardless of the incomes. Rich or poor, all want more. Interesting is that only those with acceptable incomes protest. Those very poor, like the sick ones, bear their suffering quietly. Only the professional agitators of Marxist origin shake people; and they succeed to do so with the vigorous ones, that is with those who have the fewest reasons to protest. They are multiple arguments, all based on negative feelings like jealousy, to those that have succeeded in life better, no matter how hard they worked for it. The majority of the protesters are either very easy gullible – for expressing gentle - either lazy or both of them. The increase of the revenues through the strikes is illusory on long term. The logic says that things are vice versa. Due to such manifestations, the profitability of the company diminishes and – consequently – the possibilities of raising the salaries of the employees diminishe too. It seems curious, but, due to competition between companies, those interested in raising the incomes of the workers are the patrons. In order to improve the efficiency of the company, the managers strive to attract more skilful workers, offering them higher wages. Only bad workers shout after greater salaries. The good ones should not strive for it. They are wanted. As a result, the strikes and protests are destructive and not constructive solutions. The question is: who generate them?

 

Greece has, unfortunately, many individuals with remains of communist beliefs, during the Civil War, when Stalin helped then covertly. (Covertly, and through Yugoslavia, because – formally – after discussion with Churchill, he yielded the Greece to Great Britain. Aid was interrupted after he quarrelled with Tito and saw that the continuation is of no sense, especially since England asked the U.S.A. for help, so the balance was seriously in favour of West.)

 

The mentality of the Greeks is added and the belief that they invented democracy and are very proud of. It seems that they see in it a kind of Horn of Plenty for everyone, although they should make note that it was offered to one goats, Amalthea, because gave suck to Zeus, when he was small. No words of all goats and in no case to all people. They do not realize that, through strikes, the society weakens and the potential investors could not risk their money in this country. And without investment the country collapses. The prosperity of any society come neither from those very rich and nor with aids from outside, but from the richness of the middle class, of those who work. This is why they need jobs, which is just what the investments do: create jobs. Without investments, even existing economy degrades, due to the obsolescence of technology. Their products will be increasingly less searched and existing jobs will disappear.

 

How about helps, they do not bring development. Some rich people become richer and the poor ones become poorer and… lazy. I think the most "assisted" area the world has been central Africa. And what we have there now? I think that, for Greece, a long period of deeply decline follows, after which strong rehabilitation will come, but not for the strikers of today. Greeks are a people with great vitality and in changed conditions, will know how to take advantage. Here's a case in which the stupidity of those from today will be an advantage for those of tomorrow.

 

Athens, October 12, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

It is two o’clock in the night. I don't know why I woke up. Curious is that I am not alone. I went out on the balcony and found that my neighbour-lady is talking – this time quietly – with her girl in the kitchen. These children probably sleep during the day at some nursery or children's home, where they are taken in each morning. She, the mother, maybe sleep at work, as they permanently are on strike, or is a saleswoman at a store without clients.

 

* * *

 

Last night a few clouds appeared. I guess the golden wool, after which Jason left, is related with clouds. In the legend, one talks about "the ram with the Golden Fleece". Rams could be clouds in the sky. Those with Golden Fleece are clouds at sunrise and sunset, enlightened by the sun. The folks at sunset are not interesting, because they leave. Those coming are sought; the source. So, Jason used to run after a chimera. The idea is reinforced by the observation that his deeds were not always correct. In the end, he dies without glory. I wonder: the Greeks of today are running after the Golden Fleece too?

 

On the television, as far back as from Monday, they said the weather would be bad in the second half of the week, culminating on Sunday. In the meantime, they have limited the period only for Sunday. Maybe, till then, they would change their mind. What's right, in northern Greece, in Thessaloniki, it was ugly. Only Attic, including Athens, had good weather.

 

* * *

 

The atmosphere in Athens became un-breathable, because of the garbage. As I already wrote, the workers from sanitary engineering are in the strike. I prefer to stay inside, with the windows closed, supporting my own smell, than those from outside, although the nearest container is of 50 meters away. I want a rain to wash them.

 

* * *

 

Last night, on a television channel, they were permanent displaying a message saying that that television was on strike. I enjoyed, because soundtrack music was authentic Greek of very good quality.

 

* * *

 

In one of the previous letters, or maybe in more than one, I wrote about Greek women. Not to seem misogynist, here are a few opinions about men.

 

Greek man keeps his calm by whirling a string of beads and, especially, spending time at Cafe. He never feels alone. If he does not have a partner to talk with, no problem; he can speak with himself. Not at his mobile phone. Single-only. Perhaps then, the discussion is more fruitful; he has the satisfaction that the one who contradict him is a smart man, but he gives him a replica even more intelligent. When they are cheerful, singing. There are not drunkards. I rarely saw a dizzy Greek and then I was not quit sure he was really drunk or, maybe, this is his normal state.

 

Among the youth, there are enough drugged, but I cannot say that this would be a feature of them. One of their characteristic features would be that they make nothing. As I was saying, usually at the cafe. Those who want to seem more serious, have a small shop, where they – also - sit. Sit because the shop has not clients. There are far too many similar shops on the same small street. I do not know who is the breadwinner. They created this status: the woman cares the household, children etc. and the man makes the connection with the outside, even if this link is limited to his neighbour, to whom he plays backgammon. The idea is not new. It is said that Zantipa, the wife of Socrates, was nagging. She even sued him because he neglects his duties. As a result, Socrates was retired in meditation and discussion with his friends, philosophers.

 

That women scream I said once, I think. How men are away, they yell to the children. The effect can be seen immediately. The children, reared in stress, have the voice just as rough as that of the mothers. And so we explain why the speaking of Greeks is rash. Even when they say loving or at least tender words, they do it as they would swear each other.

 

I mentioned earlier about druggists. In Romania, I find out about them on TV. In Athens I see them on the street. We have, in contrast, infinitely more many addicted to alcohol; a drug too, but more weak, say us. On the one hand, the number of alcoholics in Romania is incomparably greater than the number of drug dependents in Greece. On the other hand, the drunkards sometimes are sober, while the drugs removed completely from circulation all consumers. I wonder: which alternative is better? Pardon: which alternative is less bad? The alcohol produces many wounded, while drugs produce few wounded but many dead persons. The alarm rides by the drags is stronger. Should the drugs be free? Maybe, because any restriction has contrary effects. Between alcohol and drugs, which have a better alternative? God knows! Or maybe Hell? Behold, just here we have two alternatives as well!

 

Athens, 13 October 2011

 

- - - - -

 

At the end of next week I will go home, so it is unlikely this letter to arrive before me, due to the slowness of Greek Post, but, if I got accustomed to write in each morning, I will continue to do it. Since I'm here, writing became my daily ritual. We will read them together, and I will remind details that, otherwise, I would forget. Speaking of letters; you said that my letters come to you with great delay, in groups and not every day, as I write. I have an explanation: the Greek Post probably uses the boat as means of transport. So it is that letters arrive later. I am kidding, of course. The true cause is the typical weak Greek organization, aggravated by strikes. In my correspondence with friends from abroad, I have found that a week is sufficient even for America or Australia.

 

* * *

 

Among the tourists, there are very many English speakers. I suppose that they are Americans. Most are couples, rarely alone and rarely three or four. Sunday is the day of Germans, brought with coaches; they go in groups. Yesterday was strike and I heard more Spaniards; they are probably less informed. Incredible thing, museums were also in the strike, including Acropolis. I imagine the disappointment of the tourist, who came from thousands of kilometres, with a program of the holiday well developed, to see their plans collapsed, due to some “intellectuals” of proletarian culture. Much part of the income of Greece comes from tourism. Next year, this income will be much smaller, and that's just when they should be concerned on their growth. No chance of exit from the crises!

 

* * *

 

A mischievous said about Romania that it is a beautiful country; too bad that is inhabited. I think it is fits equally well on Greece, if not better. Although the landscapes are not beautiful, it has a climate tender and a lot of vestiges of a past, which invite you to spiritual reflections. In addition, from the architectural point of views, Athens of today is far more European than Bucharest. As about Greeks, their mentality makes you to think seriously to many things. Latin people liked them. In addition to the historical evidences, which say they have been used by Greek scholars, and the fact that they have mastered their architectural style, we have in Athens ruins of roman buildings in Greek style, proving the acknowledgment of Greek culture. They copied the Mythology almost whole, changing only the name of deities: Zeus became Jupiter, Aphrodite became Venus so on. The emperor Hadrian was fond of Athens. Someone said the Greeks have conquered their conquerors. Figuratively, of course. Nice said! The converse is not true. The Romans were the occupants while the Greeks were occupied. Not busy; they never had this feature, it seems. Occupied in the opposite sense of the occupant.

 

The situation begins to become interesting after the disintegration of Roman Empire in Eastern Roman Empire and Western Roman Empire, followed by the fall into barbarity of the second. Although we pride ourselves with the idea that the Byzantine Empire, following the Eastern Roman Empire, called by some just the Greek Empire (from the year 650, the official language was Greek), kept the flag of civilization almost 1000 years, he did not continue Roman tradition, but neither the authentic Greek one and, instead, became more and more oriental. Byzantine architecture has nothing from the ancient age of Pericles. The mythology was replaced with the Christian religion, Greek people being today among the most Orthodox believers in the world. The capital of the empire remained in Bizant, a town founded by the Greeks in 660 b.c., and renamed by the Romans Constantinople. The old Greek "polis" including Athens, were abandoned. Were those Greeks deprived of patriotism? Apparently Yes.  The Ottoman occupation followed, which serves today as an excuse for all the evils that have happened to Greece, although the fall of the Byzantine Empire was due in large part to the Greeks themselves. The decline is that that facilitated the deployment of Turkish troops in the area, culminating in the occupation of the capital. What remained from the ancient Greek culture? Nothing, except that arrogance that democracy was a Greek invention, reason for which they think that anarchy would be their ideal of life. I am sorry to say, but today democracy is the best way to rule the mob.

 

Athens, October 14, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

Amalia, the owners’ daughter, was succeeded to leave from London.

 

* * *

 

It rained a quarter of an hour, but the sky remained cloudy all day.

 

* * *

 

Among the cars circulating in the traffic of the city, the Japanese ones do not miss, of course. Of the small ones, the Italian’s Fiat are predominated. Surprising is the unexpected great number of the cars manufactured in France, proving in this form the involvement of France in Greek economy. Nevertheless, the taxis are German, particularly Mercedes, but Skoda as well, which is Volkswagen, in fact. For hard work, German quality imposed itself. Speaking about French implication, the company Carrefour is frequently encountered. I identified so far only one super market like those in Romania, but there are a lot of small shops, spread throughout the city, but only for foods. The Greeks, more merchants but buyers prefer the small shop next to the house. This gives me the feeling that Romania is on the way to become a more European nation than Greece. (Give it me, my Lord!) German firms like METRO or SELGROS are absent. It seems that the Germans have not too many reasons to love the Greeks. The converse is true for sure.

 

* * *

 

Balkan Peninsula was not a favourable space for the movement, due to the mountains, but it was very good for hiding. This explains the persistence of the some particular features, but also of several disputes. The landscape has allowed the formation of ethnic entities in tiny territories.

 

* * *

 

Sparta is now a village. Athens, instead, has been developed exaggerate and uncontrolled. Now, people do not want to live on islands, where they feel isolated procurement is expensive and slow, the access to services, particularly for health, is difficult etc. Still, in the future, the situation will change, I think. Athens became stifling. Greece will develop on the continent and on islands, especially. I make a comparison with California and New Mexico, semi-desert areas, sometime almost unpopulated, and which were developed just for this reason, when technique allowed the creation of acceptable living conditions. Air conditioning, modern means of transport, low prices and high wages made the area attractive. In New Mexico, the enterprises interested to keep secret their activity were particularly interested; it is more easily to survey in the desert. Any visitor, wanted or unwanted, is easy located from the distance. An island is perfect in this respect view too.

 

Athens will deplete. It is already visible the concern of those with some money to build houses elsewhere. It is not rather new. The very rich men not live in New York, but in residences, as far away as much is their revenue. Even in Athens, the rich ones do not squeeze in the centre, but in the select peripherals districts.

 

Athens, October 15, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

I am almost awake, although it is still night. It is dark and quiet. My eyes are closed, but with these of my mind I am seeing a bustling street landscape. I do not have the feeling that I am walking; I am like a camera, moved by someone else. I only record what's happening in front of me. Some pedestrians are passing, two young people repairs a motorcycle. It is true that, in the last days, I walk a lot. But, the landscape is not of the streets from Athens; it is like some of the streets from a Romanian city, maybe Bucharest in a semi-central area. The images are full of details; now I see some storefronts; in front of me there is a crossroad in sharp angle. There are a few trees. I do not know to be dreamed something like this so far. I find it interesting how the mind succeeds the compose images never seen.

 

* * *

 

Yesterday, in the first part of the day, was cloudy and not too cold. Then, some drops of rain began to fall; toward the evening it began to rain well. It has cooled.

 

* * *

 

Last night I saw a show on TV; they were rendering homage to Mikis Theodorakis, the composer, who wrote the music for the movie "Zorba, the Greek". It was not his birthday and I don't know the event to which the festivity was due. It was not important for me; what was count was the quality of the show: very nice. Along a table with dishes, there were approximately 20 people from the world of music, who played from the Theodorakis’s songs, but also of others. Almost all of the participants know all songs and were singing sotto voce, perhaps louder, anyway, at the TS you do not heard but the soloist.

 

* * *

 

With age, some people may not lean as ease as they did in the early life, because of the back, belly or both. This is why it was invented the exercise of the lean; in front of the boss or of worship, if he has not high expectations on earth.

 

Athens, October 16, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

Yesterday, due to the cold, I entered into at coffee shop to get warmed up. In the absence of another occupation, I started to note what went through my mind. You can see the result in the following rows.

 

I ended up on the pedestrian alley, which I told you about, that emerges from Kipseli Square. As I had frozen from the cold, I have entered into a coffee house. I am writing from here, after I got an aspirin and an antineuralgic, which – as you taught me and I checked – have an amplified effect together.

 

The place is nice. In the middle of the room, the stem of a tree pierces the roof. I do not know how tight it is, but it gives a special note to the room. One sees that the café was smaller, they extended it over a portion of the sidewalk and were forced to cover the tree.

 

* * *

 

 

I think to the Greeks. Sly as they are, they got the habit of receiving aids or to borrow money without returning, and now they hope to handle the same. Although modern Athens was built in this way, I fear that the level of understanding of simple people is rather rudimentary. They have received the first wave of the aid in the heroic age of the war of liberation. That is, however, history. The Greeks of today are no longer those of old times. Even if, theoretically, they are nationalists and patriots, few of them would be willing to risk their lives now. They have learned to live with the money of others. After the Second World War the aids came almost without interruption. If so far they have been awarded, now they beg. The most recent aids marked negatively their mentality, at least by two effects:

-         They have got the habit of living from aids, what is the worst than it looks;

-         Together with the help of Soviets, received during the Civil War, they received the communist doctrine too.

Strikes and protest rallies - their solution to the recent crisis – will not solve the problem. On the contrary, it will aggravate it. Firstly, the crisis is not their; it is a financial crisis overall. Greece is just the first on the list of indebted ones. That's because they have ripped off and laid the most, in relation to their economic power. Now, those who should resolve the crisis are those who hold the brakes. The big banks are the most involved. The association of banks wishes to save the system. The banks, however associated, are in competition each other. The failure of some is joy for the others. Who will win this dispute nobody knows. The sacrifice of some banks, with serious consequences for Greece, it is a solution unlikely. Now, the Greeks caress themselves with the idea that other countries, including the US, have debts too and that – finally - all debts will be deleted. Naive! I do not think it is appropriate to cry of pity the Americans. Perhaps, trying to save the system, the association of banks are able to find a global solution and to forgive Greece of its sins. It is, apparently, an advantageous solution for short term, but catastrophic on long-term. The only correct solution is the economic growth, and this involves to attract the investors and not to scare them.

 

* * *

 

There are here, in the café, two waiting-girls very nice, unusual In the Greek landscape. I think in their genealogic tree slipped a foreign race. Even the boy at the bar is handsome.

 

* * *

 

Someone said that the wars described by Homer would have been much more petty and that only the writer's talent made them great. It appears that about the heroes we could say the same thing. Even Odysseus, seems to have been just a small cunning fellow. So, thanks to Homer the Greeks would have a glorious past.

 

''A great past, a great future" is a line of a Romanian poetry. Is it suitable for Greeks? Greece is not a large country and is no longer great at all. Yes, but the simple fact that it exist for several millennia, of which the last two under foreign occupation, is evidence that it has a life with few countries can hope. But, as not Trojan’s War was great, but the work of Homer and that of others like him, it appears that not political criteria are to be taken into consideration, but the cultural dimension. They, the Greeks, from this point of view, have a really great past, and this is the explanation of Greece’s persistence. This does not mean that all Greeks are people of culture. On the contrary! Even now, when I put down these thoughts, in a cafe-space, in which, traditionally, Greeks spend evenings in face of a cup of words - I could hardly call intellectual someone around, though the Café is in the centre of the town.

 

* * *

 

Greek children like school. At least some! Yesterday, Sunday, at 20 o’clock, in front of a school, a group of children talked merely around a pile of rubbish. The garbage doesn't disturbed them, sign that it occurred many times. Important is the fact that you cannot break up the school, even when it is closed.

 

I also have a more pessimistic variant: the routine; this is the place where they come during the breaks, to do what is not allowed in school. But, maybe, I should not write this.

 

Athens, October 17, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

The weather was repaired. The sky is blue, but pretty cold.

 

The neighbour woman across the corridor works after the meal, I think. She comes in the evenings. She sleeps only toward the morning. Now It is 3:45 o’clock and I hear her making conversation with the little girl; both are lively. It would leave at least the child to have a normal sleep. Even the dog in the block across the street sleeps at this hour. He barks only during the day, especially evenings, when the owners of pets walk along the bet friend, and he notifies that he observed them. That's right, sometimes he barks to some pedestrian as well, but I have not yet found out why. At me, he does not bark. I remember that, a few years ago, in Brasov, the dog of a neighbour used to bark to me when I went out of the house dressed with the overall of painting, which was speckled with paint. It was clear that was admonishing me for defective clothing.

 

* * *

 

I don't know if people were more beautiful at the time of Fidias & co. If they were identical with those of today, it means the artists of antiquity had the intuition of beauty, because they created the ideal of beauty that has been preserved until today. Yes, Greeks are those who made us sick by beauty. The Fidias’ Greeks! The English, French people, stealing Greek statues, conveyed the microbe of beauty at their home.

 

In Athens, the ruins tell us that the spirit of antiquity still exists. Closely researched, however, we find that it is full of absences. There are missing not only the descendants of those who built them, but also those for which they were built. Modern Athens is something else. And yet, the spirit is there, but it must be sought elsewhere. The aim of those who have built in stone monuments destined to resist in time could not be those few inhabitants of the nowadays town. They aimed at the Universe and defied the time. We are their target, all of us. That means they want to tell to the world something, all people to learn that they found out something, that they - and not others - are those who have discovered that something.

-         Well, well, and what they found out? That they can build in stone? Many people knew this.

-         The Greeks discovered the beauty. They searched for it first in philosophy and applied in art.

Unfortunately, we needed rather much time to appropriate it, but – finally – we did it, even partially. Slowly, but surely! Even the robbery was a means by which Greek aesthetics made school in European capitals. The robbery from Greek heritage has worked like a Trojan horse. Or like a microbe; immediately reached in Paris or London, they fell ill the viewers with the beauty disease; the ideal of beauty invented by the Greeks.

 

Why the Greeks were so proud with their discovery? I look around and found that people that I see on the street does not really resemble with those from the statues. Have been those from the past otherwise? Possible, but I don't think this is the cause. Sooner, I think that artists have idealised and have developed a theoretical model of beauty. They have invented the aesthetics. And because the writing was not spread as today, they fixed it in stone, to last, and have placed it on the heights, to be seen.

 

Athens remains a landmark for make us sure of the failure of the ugly in any form, even of some artistic pretensions currents, but without actual coverage. Maybe especially them! The silence of the Parthenon, of Greek temples, is a lesson of aesthetics more compelling than any scholar course of aesthetics.

 

Thanks to the decapitate statues and all sorts of barbarian destruction, Athens shows us the true face of humanity. But, maybe, things can improve. Perhaps the good and the beauty have a chance in the face of evil and ugly. The all is to want it. This is the lesson of Athens and this is why Acropolis is located on a Hill, a pleonasm – of course – because Acropolis even it means: the city from the top. It is there, in order that we keep it in mind anywhere we are and, behold, any when, since it resists over centuries.

 

* * *

 

The society has always been and will be composed by rulers and ruled. Accordingly, there will be rich and poor persons in the same measure. Important is to not exaggerate because – on the other hand – the prosperity brings by the middle class. Middle class must be in majority and not that of the poor people. The social distribution must take the form of the Gauss’ bell, and not of a triangle. Bell's Gauss is a mathematical representation of reality, of the nature itself, while the triangle is a simplistic image, created by the minds of the same size.

 

* * *

 

If the 19th century was heroic for Greeks, the following, despite of the prosperity acquired it was one of moral degradation. Victims of Soviet and Russian propaganda, on the one hand, and of the aid from the West, on the other hand, they have become lazy and recalcitrant.

 

* * *

 

Everyone knows today that Churchill and Stalin discussed and established the division of Eastern Europe after the Second World War. Because Churchill went to Moscow on 9 October 1944, they say that he was the one who proposed to Stalin, and he accepted the agreement according to which, after the war, Greece will come in the area of English influence in the proportion of 90% and Romania in the Soviet Union one, in the same proportion.

 

The question is: the United States does not have anything to say? Of course, it had. Even between England and the United States  certainly occurred lots of discussions long before, about which we do not know, as we did not know long time about the agreement between Churchill and Stalin.

 

We could understand now why the Romania's attempts to get out of the alliance with Germany and become their partners had failed just before the Churchill-Stalin’s meeting.

 

Athens, October 18, 2011

 

- - - - -

 

It was a splendid day. You say that it snowed last night and the temperature is below 0 degrees in Brasov. Here, I may say it became cooler. People still do bathe in the sea.

 

Yes, I was once again at the seaside, this time a little further. I went by tramway on the known way up to Voula and, from there, by bus to Varkiza.

 

I had noticed during the previous visit that there are buses going far away, but I did not know where they go. I learned and found out that the route of the bus number E22 passes through all localities along the coast, up to Saronida, which is very close to Cape Sounio, the southern end of the peninsula, where the ruins of the famous "Temple of Poseidon" are situated. Why people made a temple on the land dedicated to Poseidon, the God of the seas, I do not know. Its celebrity is due to the position. Located on a promontory, offers a beautiful sight particularly during the sunset. However, all the photos on views are taken in such times.

 

If I think about it a bit, I remember that Poseidon is the God of earthquakes as well and, if still meditate, I remember that one of the explanations for the disappearance of Minoan culture is an earthquake, followed by a tsunami, which started from the island of Santorini. The location of the temple on this promontory get a justification: it was worshipped to Poseidon with the request not to play with the lives of the Greeks and, if possible, to protect them.

 

With the ticket that I had, I might go as far as Varkiza, so I did it. Anyway, I would not have the time for a longer trip, especially since I was not knowing how long it will take. I will do it another time, better prepared.

 

In Varkiza and on the way up there, by curiosity, I had a look at the apartments for rent, even if, now, the information is not topical. In spring, maybe my dream of living near the sea could become reality. The entire area of the coastline has developed enormously in the last few decades. Here, those with much money invested and have raised luxurious residences. It is a delight to walk and look around, under the condition not to be envious.

 

The first locality after Voula is Vouliagmenis, after which the highway travels a little inhabited land, an area where the mountain descends steeply toward the sea. In some tiny gulfs, sandy beaches invite you to leave the highway for a good bath in clear water. Some people just do it.

 

Varkiza is a small locality. The area from the vicinity of the sea looks like all other from the seaside, but, wandering away from the sea and – of course – climbing, the houses become villas, and this ones turn into real palaces. I have not found a palace to rent, but, on the outskirts of the city, there are simple houses of those who are engaged in activities less profitable, but useful for the locality, where you might find something for our budget of retirees.

 

On returning route, I used the bus route E22 and I found out that its end is in the centre of Athens, at "Academy" station. In addition, through Athens the bus go on the boulevards, as an express and not like the tram, as a snail. This is the justification of the letter E from the name of the route.

 

Athens, 19 October 2011

 

- - - - -

 

It is general strike; the means of transport do not work, so that I cannot go to Saronida with the bus E22, which I've just discovered. I'm sorry, especially since it is a beautiful day. The most adequate activity seems to be a walking through the parks of Athens, where, there are not piles of garbage.

 

Athens looks really very nice, especially in such areas, and they are many. There are trees on many streets, even on the narrow ones. Among them are even lemons, now with fruit, which can be used but nobody collect them. Mandarins instead, are only decorative. Some bushes from the sidewalks or in the balconies of the houses have flowers. I recognized only a few. Most of them are unknown for me, but they are equally beautiful.

 

The park where I am now is a spectacle, and the gentle sun is pleasing, particularly after the cold from previous days. I write at the present time, because I am sitting on a bench in the park and put down my impressions.

 

I must tell you that our apartment is quite cold. The Greeks are not concerned about the thermal insulation. I hope the central heating to be more efficient, although, if it will, will cost. So far, the owner did not start it.

 

That the Greeks are a skimpy I knew. But behold, it cost now more, because they must consume more energy for heating and now just its price has raise. What is the point in talking about health! The medicines can cost more than just housing, and the number of elderly women with sequels of rheumatism, rickets, illnesses of the kidneys and other afflictions or just infirmities prove the effect of these wrong mentalities. They are to seen in women, because they stay longer in the house, while men walk or work outside. With an investment little greater at the construction of the house, they could achieve a better and more efficient thermal insulation, with substantial economy throughout the existence of the dwelling.

 

But look, I am thinking at unpleasant things, instead of be glad for the pleasure of sitting on a bench in the park, under the rays of the sun of autumn.

 

A guy with Asian figure has left me to watch a large black plastic bag, and he went to the toilet nearby. I think it stands there for a quarter of an hour. I should move a little, especially since the bench is hard, but I must wait.

* * *

In the end, he came!

* * *

 

I returned after a tour through the centre, where the demonstrators made mess in all forms. Wherever they gone, the pavement of the streets has a coverlet by manifests, packaging of drinks more or less soft and others, thrown in a total shamelessness.

 

It passed about two hours since I left and the sun changed its position. I moved in another place, on another bench, better exposed to the sun.

 

I found that I bothered a turtle, which was situated just below the bench on I stay. Now, after a journey that lasted a few minutes, she went deep into the bush from the back, one with small green leaves, thick and glossy.

 

The images from the streets still are in my mind. If, in the Sundays, Athens is an active city, most shops are open, its inhabitants join the tourists, it is a dead town today. The mess from the streets gives him the appearance of a former town, deserted now, where only the garbage and scumbags have multiplied.

 

Although the merchants are not in strike, the experience has made them cautious. Everything is closed; the shutters are drawn and scribbled persistently by the demonstrators. One of the slogans drew my attention about the desire of the protesters: "Global Civil War". So, simple anarchy!

 

For week, K.K.E. the Greek Communist Party, advertise for mobilizing the population to strike in Omonia Square. Because there is not enough space for many people, they are active from place to place on the adjacent streets up till Syntagma Square. You can identify them from a distance, because of the megaphones on which they howl their slogans. I know the word howl sounds nasty, but it is elegant face to the reality. Also, they can be identified from the flow of people going to the house, after they had done act of attendance. I recognize the feeling, because we all lived with it, in our country in those nearly 50 years of communist regime. Why we participate in rallies organized by the party, I know. Why the Greeks feel obligated to do it, I do not know.

 

This name, K.K.E., sounds funny. Curious is that, in Greek, "kaka" is the opposite of "kala", and means ugly, obnoxious.

 

Anyway we would say, its activity is as large as disturbing. Even without get in depth, the necessary expenditure to organize these events – and they are not rare – are dozens times larger than those for parliamentary elections in our country. On my route of today I did not see a single pole or tree without 2-4 posters on it; some of them were so up, that needed cranes to put them there. And this strike is not a singular one. Since I am here, they are kept chain, almost every Wednesday and Thursday. What they do at work on Monday, Tuesday and Friday is easy to imagine: prepare the demonstrations for Wednesday and Thursday. Saturdays and Sundays are free days. In those days, there are not strike or demonstrations, as they are not so stupid. They are just lazy.

 

We are told that what you do on Monday will do all week. That’s why, in such day, the housewives do not do unpleasant activities, like washing laundry. Also, it is alleged that you might not give money; it is better to receive, if possible. The Greeks have solved the problem in a different way. To them, Monday is called "deftera", meaning "the second"; the second day of the week. The first is Sunday, "day of the Lord". Saturday is "savato", i.e. "the Sabbath", when just the Jews do not work. And then, they, the Greeks, why would do it?

 

* * *

 

I can read on my pen "Discover the broom". Probably anything else was to discover, but what it was written is deleted and that's why I can read now. The broom I discovered. It was in a corner of the balcony. It is worn out enough and, anyway, I prefer the electric cleaner and the mop. I already bought a new one.

 

* * *

 

The tortoise behind me seems to be accustomed with the presence of mine; it gained courage and began to circulate. I hope it do not want to climb on me.

 

* * *

 

Since the morning, above Athens a helicopter rotates permanently. It oversees "the show". I think it only film, because the show is guarded by lots of cops and soldier, well equipped. The others are prepared themselves too. I saw men equipped with filters anti-gas. They were not even gas masks, as those used in the army, but only a linen over the nose and mouth, but with a true filter in the centre.

 

Worrying for the Greeks is not so much the existence of a communist party, as the extent of his work. The Soviet influence is evident even through its symbols: red flag with the hammer and sickle. The extent of the propaganda is fantastic, and here the Russian aid is evident. They have even a TV channel, where, when they do not make propaganda, give Soviet films with topics from the Second World War, with partisans, generally with men fighting for communism. K.K.E. probably considers such moves to be mobilizing, because both, in War World and during the Civil War, they received help from the former U.S.S.R. It seems that K.K.E. considers even today to be a child of the P.C. of U.S.S.R. If the father is died, behold, he has a child alive.

 

Russia's interest is obvious. Even if they renounced at communism, Russian politicians are too clever and skilled in foreign policy, for not take the advantage of the opportunity. From the czar Peter the Great and until today, they wanted to have access to the Mediterranean Sea. Until now, the West was opposed, but a gap arises now. The question is: what future has the Greece? Not in strikers’ minds. They are simple ignorant, handle by others with different interests. The opinion of Greek politicians is also irrelevant. Like all politicians in the world, they are interested only in preserving and use the power, which ensures them material prosperity. The Future? The opinion of ordinary man is important, but I had no opportunity to learn. It seems that it is pretty feeble, because I don't think a man with normal mind could agree with what is happening here now.

 

Everyone wants to get out from the crisis. Their solutions are however extremist and without any perspective of straightening the situation. On the contrary! The politicians, after accumulated skyrocketing fortunes, they want to repair the financial balance through fees paid for the needy. This is not only indecent, but the receipts realized in this way are insignificant compared with the hole in the budget and especially face to the debts of Greece.

 

What makes me even more perplex is the finding that the government increases some charges but does not care for others, for example to collect those from smuggling cigarettes. Tax evasion does not mind them at all.

 

In Romanian television, there is not a single news program without the arrest of some traffickers of smuggled cigarettes and the evasion tax with which the state would have been damaged. In Athens, in the centre of the city, there are lots of individuals offering cigarettes at lower prices than in the store stops in full street. Obviously, they are obtained through smuggling. And they are not few; they are stiffly and don't worry about anyone; on the contrary, they operate in face of the policemen. Alongside Museum of Archaeology, there is a space where you have to think twice to enter; it would  be wise not to do. There they sold drugs too. Also, in the police sight!

 

From this point of view, the revolt of masses is justified. On the other hand, the protesters did not have a plan of action, not a solution. They just revolt and eventually want to change the Government. With who? With those who shake them today? With the leaders of syndicates? These ones will prove to be greater swindlers than the Governors of today.

 

K.K.E., if had were really interested in the prosperity of Greek people would have a program to this aim, it would have come with realistic solutions, with proposals for rules and laws to prevent the theft from public asset but for raising national product. The destructive manifestations, organised by this malefic party, with its exaggerated claims, succeed only to remove the potential investors and mislead the population, taught to live from aids. Their glorious past, when aids were necessary, has now adverse consequences in people’s mentality, and this mentality is speculated today. The Greek hopes that he will handle in the same way in the future as until now. It is possible to happen so, but it would be the worst possible variant, since the aids do not solve the problem, just delays it, aggravating it.

 

On the other hand, the society is a living organism. It did not be headed dictatorial. All dictatorships have finished quickly. With all of these, every society must be rule somehow, reason for which, usually, it is ruled bad.

 

I am ready to go! The sun sunset and it will make cold. Bye-bye! In the park, it was a wonderful day.

 

* * *

 

I found that, in a place more open, it will be sun less than an hour, so I sat down on another bench. It has about four metres length, and wood from which it is made are from a single piece, perfect straight. Expensive and useless! Thanks to its length, in short time, a couple of French people have sat down at the other end of it. In this sonorous ambience, their French language sound just pleasant.

 

It is interesting the French economic involvement in Greece. I am probably a little malicious when I try an explanation based on their envy face to England. There were hundreds of years during England was interested in this area of the Mediterranean Sea and they are those who helped Greece during the Second World War and in the first part of the Civil War. Now England does not exist here. I am referring to visible businesses and not to they made in offices, which may be anywhere in the world and only of tradition some of them are in Athens. Now, on the left place, France hastened to enter, and now has problems.

 

Those two French have left. Now, a pair of 30-35 years, well dressed, passes on the alley. They do not seem to be workers. She wears a flag on which one can distinguish the signs of K.K.E. She carry it at home in the hope that it will be useful another time. Now she is cheerful, almost happy.

 

England provokes me another observation. She is no longer present now in East European market with small products. Probably it is based only on big business. I am thinking that big businesses are risky and it is dangerous to rely only on them; they can change the owner at any time. The power of a nation is in the middle class and it is the reason that Germany is in the top after two lost wars. (Sometimes it's more efficient to lose a war, than to win.) Athens lost the war with Sparta and barely after that it woke up to reality and became the one that we are talking today. Without the Hellenistic era, during which the Greek culture spread in Mediterranean area, Greece would be only a historical curiosity. The German knows to work; the Greek knows to play backgammon at the café.

 

The animation of the Park has changed. There are more people now. Some just across the park en route to the house. Most, however, come to relax. It is probably a reflex from hot days, when only in the evenings one can go out for a walk. It is said about Greeks they have an intense life in evening. During the day, do not disturb them, especially between 14 and 19 o’clock, because this is time for sleep.

 

* * *

 

What you have read so far were the notes that I took yesterday, most written in a park. I was quiet, solved the main projects, bought the ticket to leave for Brasov over two days; it was a splendid day. I was relaxing. My writing was suddenly interrupted, because a young Arab, asked me something what I did not understand and left quickly. Meantime from my back, his colleague scrounged me bag. I ran a little, but it was useless; a few meters far away there were several dozens of individuals of the same colour and not a smallest chance for me to catch the two thieves. In the bag I had two credit cards, a mobile phone, camera and – especially– my identity card, without which I cannot returns home. Tomorrow I will have to go to the Embassy.

 

What followed is, perhaps, easy to imagine, although I doubt it. Nervous consumption is impossible to realize, for those who never lived similar situations. You need to take some pills for tranquillity, and I am grateful because you have trained me.

 

And all this in a day in which I planned to make a trip to Saronida!

 

* * *

 

 I am reminded the discussion with the receptionist from the hotel with those three Franco-Algerians, when he said the Algerian and Moroccan people are the most active thieves in Paris, and that himself was robbed. I said then that probably he was polite to me not speaking about the thieves from Romania. Well, it was not civility. The Romanians are visible only begging, isolated or in very small groups and relatively few. I am now convinced that he was truly furious on Arabs, not because they are many in Paris, but because here lots in Athens, and work in gangs. Perhaps a pack of wolfs would more suitable; although those of the Arabs are much more numerous.

 

I was reading in a travel guide that Athens is a city safe at night, because the streets are populated at any time, thanks to the appetite of the Greeks for night entertainment. Maybe! They have stolen me during the day.

 

It happened in the park “Alsos Pediou Areos" like the Parisian "Champ de Mars", Ares being the God of war in Greek Mythology, similar to the Mars, in Romans. I will nickname it "The Hermes’ Park", after the God of thieves, although those who have stolen were Arabs, but it happened in Greece, under the nose of the police.

 

* * *

 

Usually I keep the bag on shoulder belt. Why I left just now the bag from the shoulder and put it on the bench, along me, offering it to the thieves, do not know. It was a beautiful day, I was feeling well and relaxed.

 

Today it seems to be a beautiful day as well, but it does not matter now. This night I slept less than two hours, and those with interruptions.

 

Not to forget; I had to solicit the owners’ daughter from the second floor. He is left to London to help the other daughter and will return barely on Monday. In the stolen bag my keys were, so I could not get inside; besides, the thieves had the address too, so that they could enter instead of me. She was very affable; caller, immediately a locksmith and he changed the lock. She even offered to give me some money, assuming that I no longer own. Fortunately, I do not carry all the money we me, so I still have some.

 

Yesterday, late in the night, watching the TV – anyway, something else I was not able to do - I noticed that, during the manifestations, there were scuffles between the demonstrators and not only between the demonstrators and policemen. So I think, because some of those who seemed to be policemen wore helmets for motorcyclists and were lacked of the uniforms. In addition – and this is my attention – they were not organized in teams, as the soldiers do, but individual, disorganized.

 

Interesting is that this technique was invented by the Greeks, to 650 b.c. The soldier was called “hoplit”, because he was using a round shield called “hoplon”. They were fighting in a dense row (phalanx), method taken over by Roman legions. The method was high appreciated during the centuries later. Amusing, if it would not sad, is that the Americans, during their Civil War, in full 19 century, applied the same tactic, but with firearms instead of white arms and shields. This explains the huge number of deeds and proves the stupidity of military “geniuses”.

 

Watching the TV, but I think being doze, the sound suggest me the atmosphere of a manifestation and I wanted to change the channel. I have found that it was a football match. Strange resemblance! Or maybe not so strange!

 

Athens, October 20, 2011

 

- - - - -

My head is still flummoxed, so unsuitable for writing. On the other hand, writing is the only solution lies in my mind, to traverse these moments of stress. Pills I took enough. I think that, without them, I would not be able to do what I still do. So, I write, though don't know if the result would be relevant to other people. But it is salutary for me.

 

I thought it would be easy to get to Embassy. I found the address of a guide and I identified it on the map. It was in the centre, so it will be easy to get there. So I thought! But the proverb “Many go out for wool and come home shorn” was true this time too. At that address a pub was. Fortunately, in any pub there is an informed person. There was one there as well, who said me that Romanian embassy lays on a street with same name, but in another district, where one can reach there only by bus or taxi. Taxis were on strike, and buses do not go up in the centre, because of a manifestation. They used to shorten their line through obscure and narrow streets, hardly to identify. You probably think that I exaggerate, but please believe me; I lost at least one hour attempting to identify a station where busses stop on their returning route.

 

An interesting scene happened after I got off the bus. The streets are tortuous in that area, so I asked about the exact address a gentlemen climbing into his limousine: a Mercedes. He replied in Greek language and that he does not know English and, of course, does not understand what I want. Then, I addressed to the seller at a kiosk a few meters nearby, from whom I obtained the necessary information. While I was directing toward the embassy, I had to pass again by his car. He was still there. This time, the guy made me sign to enter his car and told me in a perfect English that he will carry me up to the embassy, because it is very close to his home.

 

Finally, almost exhausted mainly because the stress, I arrived at the embassy.

 

On this occasion I saw a different area of the city, one of the most elegant. There is established Romanian Embassy. It is far away from the centre, very far, but what neighbourhood ... only ultra elegant villas, with much greenery around, quietly. On the streets, there are not cheap cars. How the Romanian citizen get there? Sweaty and after a half of day in which he swear his politicians. The ambassador wants to sit there. Good for him. Still, he might put the consulate in a place more accessible.

 

I was alone when I arrived at the Embassy, so that it was okay, because everything developed fast. I was lucky having driving licence with me; it was useful for identification. Anyway else, everything would be much more complicated. The price for getting a document to returning in Romania was 65 euros. Pure robbery.

 


Here is my identification act as looser.

 


Before leaving, five people had come, all looted. So, I was not the only one. It is a consolation, although weak enough. Three of them were gypsies. Romanian gypsies robbed in Greece. Almost funny!

 

What I reproach to myself is not as much that they stolen me, but that I left them to robber me, I inspired them a person than could be stolen.

 

* * *

 

Yesterday and today, during the day of the great general strikes and the next, I made a random statistic of the content of programs on Greek television. As I do not understand Greek language, the only interesting post for me is CNN. On the others I only throw a glance. The idea of doing a statistic was almost natural. From those twenty channels visible on my TV set, only five broadcasted political programs. I think this statistic is relevant for people’s mood here.

 

Athens, October 21, 2011

 

-         - - - -

 

I will not have time to write. At 20 o’clock I will leave. The following notes are recorded on an MP3 device, which was not with me in the unlucky day. You will be able to hear them later.

 

* * *

 

I decided to make the trip in Saronida today, by E22 bus-route, which I've discovered a few days ago. I want to see the entire western coastline of Attica and possibilities for rental here an apartment, closer to shoreline. I head still flummoxed, so a trip is welcome. The landscape images moving through bus window will distract me from my thoughts.

 

The trolleybus took me close up to Omonia Square. Further, some streets are locked for circulation, because of some demonstrations, even I did not see them and nor heard their characteristic sounds. I walked up to the station "Academy". Lucky that it is not far away. The great problem was whether buses E22 circulate and if they depart from the station or from other place, unknown to me. On Omonia Square there was quiet; only a few slogans on huge fresh posters can be seen from the distance.

 

I was lucky! Buses depart normal, from the station. Up to Saronida a ticket is 1.6 euros and other 1,6 euro in return.

 

We left at 11:04. On the road toward the sea, on which we crossed often, only now I see a true orchard on the roof of a building.

 

Soon, we are at Voula, as the bus goes faster than the tram, on a large avenue. At Varkiza, a lot of people wallow in the see, maybe more many now than a month ago, when I arrived in Greece. It could be so, because of the feeling that summer season is winding down and people want to take advantage of these last few favourable days, while everything is still green here and there are many flowers. On the horizon, I see a slight haze; sign that fall begins.

 

12: 26. We arrived in Saronida. Many people, even those of modest condition, speak English here, more than in Athens. On a pretty great, steep and barren hill, there are very many separated houses. I asked why people built houses in hard accessible and removed places. They replied me that there are some villas of very rich men: politicians, business people. I first wonder, but soon I find an explanation: the desire of isolation. Indeed, an eventual "popular rage" could not cause damages, for the simple reason that it would be difficult to got there on foot.

 

- - - - -

 

I am the way to the house nor. I can still write "My dear", because, everything I do, I think to you .The power of habitude, what one can do! I am putting down some observations from the bus.

 

Several passengers of 30-35 years old are returning to country, after having worked in Greece 10-15 years. They are obviously sad. Their unanimous justification is the collapse of Greek economy, unemployment and decrease of wages.

 

* * *

 

In Bulgaria, the forest is already rust-coloured. Pity that is foggy! One can see only a few kilometres away, sometimes only 5-600 meters. Sometimes, the landscape is more nice so; it seems more mysterious.

 

* * *

 

Besides the stolen objects from the bag, I lost also the photos taken with the camera, mobile-phone and the records from the voice recorder, which I bought in the United States of America, and which was at the bases of my first novel, "Alone among the Americans", so "Alone among the Greeks" will be a project for another time, maybe together.

 

* * *

 

Gaddafi has become history. Last night, at C.N.N, this topic grasped the whole program. It is interesting how dictatorships disappear: the same way, i.e., shameful. As long as the dictator is alive, everyone believes that he has secured a wealth protection and lots of solutions to save himself. I am thinking, of course, to Ceaushescu too. When it occurs, he finds that he is alone. Well, between Gaddafi and Ceausescu is a crucial difference, Gaddafi was, indeed, a dictator, while Ceausescu had an aura of dictator, created by the others. Theoretically, the regime claimed to be a "dictatorship of the proletariat", as communist utopia called it. Instead of it, an oligarchic society appeared, as the “Science of Policy” defined it, if such a science would be. The term "policy" come from the Greek "póli" (city), and refers to the "business of the city", i.e. the administration of the city. We can not remove the disputes in agora. The difference is that today they moved behind the rear-closed doors. Revenons á nos moutons (and their shepherds), the oligarchy imposed by the Soviets after the Second World War has been consolidated itself into a leading social structure. As any pyramidal structure, it needed a visible doll, like that we people put on top of Christmas tree, in order to attract attention, although the gifts are down. "The precious indications", about which they spoke as long, were not of him; any visit was prepared by specialists in the field, and he only was saying what they settled that would should be done. Funny enough was to hear him saying what he was taught to say. But, you should humour for tasting the ridiculousness of the situation and we were rather angry for it. But, we had another kind of humour, much more tasted. Here's a sample:

-         Do you know the joke with these two coffins in front of the Central Committee of the Party?

-         No.

-         Nor me, but I love how it begins.

At the beginning of the '80 years of the last century, for the members of those structures, created not only in Romania, but in all eastern European countries under the Soviet influence, including the U.S.S.R. itself, it has becoming clear that the centralised economy is not a viable solution and that their own wealth would increase if they would adopt a free economy, like that in western countries. This is what they have done. Ceaushescu did not understand the manoeuvre and must to disappear. It is the reason why he no longer had supporters in the last moments; just they removed him. Now, that the games are made, the same structure lead, with some smaller adjustments in form, but important others in content of their bags.

 

* * *

 

Christianity was thought in Greece and implemented in Jerusalem; communism was designed in Germany and implemented in Russia. I am now wondering: if a new paradigm will be generated in Greece, where it will be implemented?

 

October 22, 2011